As you walk down the dark sidewalks of Piedmont Avenue looking for the right address, what you’ll find is not your typical neighborhood restaurant. There are no signs or menus outside, just a brightly lit white awning topping the all-glass facade. At first glance, it looks more like an art gallery space than a standard dining room. But what lies inside is a gastronomical oasis enclosed by stark white walls.
Step in and you’ll see a modern open kitchen framed by a 6-seat counter. With orchestrated precision, the chefs move graciously in the small space that resembles a cross of a sushi bar and a modern laboratory. Absolutely pristine and quiet except for the occasional hissing sound of liquids squirted into hot stainless steel saucepans. Each dish is artfully assembled with surgical tongs. A captivating process that, not coincidentally, is staged right in the middle of the dining room.
Commis’ design is minimalist. Not a single piece of art or decoration adorn the walls and there’s no bar or lounge distraction. Diners that arrive early are encouraged to watch the kitchen while standing by the entrance. No one complains.
Including the counter seats, only 31 guests fill the dining room. The restaurant’s minimalist personality is reflected in every detail. From the naked tables to the über modern dinnerware. But here modern doesn’t mean cold. Service, for example, is extremely efficient yet very approachable.
And while most diners arrive with reservations, the bright space that once housed a more traditional eatery still draws a handful of curious walk-ins unfamiliar with Commis’ more unconventional dining experience. Some look at the menu and decide that’s not for them (more on that later).
The menu
Commis’ nightly selection changes often based on the seasonality of local sustainable ingredients. The prix fixe menu ($59) includes three courses plus amuse bouches and mignardises. There are nine options in total, four appetizers, three entrées and three desserts. A wine pairing is also available ($29).
The meal 
James Syhabout’s career includes stints in some of the most prestigious restaurants in the world. Restaurants recognized for their unparalleled excellence and creativity that have earned them countless awards, Michelin stars and critic praises. Restaurants like El Bulli, The Fat Duck and Mugaritz.
Back in the Bay Area, the chef worked at COI and Manresa before opening his own place overseas (across the bridge, that is). In kitchen ranks, commis is a junior chef. A position of apprenticeship–there to learn, to absorb. And that’s what Syhabout believes every chef should be, no matter how experienced he/she is. That’s how he approaches his work, with the humbleness and eagerness of a commis. That’s how he named his restaurant.
Syhabout’s cuisine is inventive, flavorful and precise. The chef’s influences can be seen reflected in some of his dishes.
Commis serves tasty small house baked rolls with Humboldt County butter.
To begin, Red shiso soda. Infused with Japanese basil leaves, the foamy drink has a sweet, brisk taste with an aroma reminiscent of green grass after the rain. It awakens and entices your palate to what comes next.
As an amuse bouche, A delicate concoction of poached farm egg, date purée, white onion soup, malt vinegar, chives and house made granola. A beautiful combination of complex flavors and textures with each individual element cooked perfectly. A memorable dish.
Braised lamb cheeks with anise purée. Oyster vinaigrette and young radishes. The tender lamb cheeks are paired with ingredients of contrasting temperatures and textures, like the crunchiness of cold watermelon and French radishes against the creamy purée.
Soft farm egg with potatoes and alliums. Fermented black garlic and pork jowl. In what may very well become Syhabout’s signature dish (it seems to be the critics’ favorite), the chef blends together contrasting ingredients that couldn’t work better together. A beautifully cooked egg that appears as glossy as porcelain yields a bright soft orange yolk. The ebony-black fermented garlic is brushed on the plate as a sweet, balsamic-like paste. Fatty cubes of pork add richness to the dish.
Guinea fowl with natural renderings. Toasted wheat berries with walnuts and maroon carrots, gourd mustard. Cooked sous-vide and finished in the pan, the lean fowl is juicy and tender. Intertwined together to form a yin and yang of dark and white meats, it is served over the contrasting texture of wheat berries cooked al dente and complemented by the sweet mustard.
Slow roasted pork loin and belly, pomegranate juice. Creamed escarole and tarragon bread crust. Once again, a nice play on contrasting flavors and textures also featuring caramelized sunchokes and spinach.
Apple-thyme tatin. Amber ale caramel, English cheddar ice cream. This minimalist version of the classic French dessert may not be as luscious as the original but the cheddar ice cream is a worthy complement.
Warm pumpkin custard. Licorice cream, root beer reduction, pepitas. A delicious warm custard, soft and sweet. Paired with a velvety licorice cream, a caramel-like reduction and crunchy toasted pumpkin seeds.
In short
In what became a controversial move (you may have followed the tweets), Michael Bauer recently gave Commis a lukewarm review. The SF Chronicle food critic called the restaurant pretentious and concluded that Syhabout’s cuisine may not please everyone. Here’s my take. Innovation, by definition, is the art or the unexpected. And everything that surprises can be uncomfortable at first. But if done right, the surprise becomes exceptionally enjoyable. Because it brings together emotional memories of flavors you know with combinations and preparations that challenge the status quo. In my opinion, Commis does it well. Yes, the prix fixe menu, the stark dining room and the unconventional preparations may not please everyone. So what? Taste is not a universal thing. If popularity were a sign of quality, McDonald’s would be the world’s best restaurant. So Mr. Bauer, I agree that the restaurant is not for everyone but I’d say that’s a good thing. We need more chefs with strong points of view. As for being pretentious, I beg to differ.
Commis is at 3859 Piedmont Ave
Online reservations
Commis, Oakland
Aziza, San Francisco
In the heart of the Richmond district, Geary Boulevard transforms itself into an ethnically diverse urban-suburbia of 45º parking and wall-to-wall storefront displays. Among Russian shops, Korean BBQ joints and dim sum eateries you’ll find a discreet corner restaurant that attracts foodies from all over town. Now more than ever.
Since it opened its doors 8 years ago, Aziza has become a popular restaurant among foodies and the local press. But the recently awarded (fans would say, long overdue) Michelin star is likely to propel the restaurant’s fame nationwide.
Aziza’s main dining room may not be the hippest in town but it’s all-around welcoming. Designed with a simple yet thematically honest Moroccan flair, the atmosphere is colorful and warm. Arabesques adorn the floor and tabletops; Moorish arches frame cozy booths that can fit a romantic couple as well as a cozy party of six.
The restaurant also features two other more traditional dining rooms with tables set closely together. Service is attentive and efficient. Dishes are not described upon arrival but the wait staff will answer any queries.
The menu 
Neighborhood and atmosphere aside, Aziza’s claim to fame is all about its food. Prepared by the talented Mourad Lahlou, the restaurant’s fare is an inventive and contemporary take on Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine. Inventive yet never gratuitous. Lahlou’s creativity lies in putting together outstanding flavor combinations, perfect preparations and beautiful presentations.
The menu features 17 appetizers ($5 to $18) and 11 entrées ($18 to $28). Each dish is described only by listing its ingredients. A five-course tasting menu is also available ($62).
The meal
At first sight, Mourad Lahlou may look like a fashion model or a nicer version of the villain in Dan Brown’s latest novel. With tattooed arms and a shaved head, the Moroccan-born chef sees his body as a living journal of his life, according to a recent profile in the Chronicle. Self-taught and deeply influenced by his family, Lahlou is one of the most talented chefs in town. His food is at the same time sophisticated and highly approachable.
Sardines, sea lettuce, fennel, brioche. Delicate filets of fresh sardines with a nice acidity and the aroma of fennel make this dish very successful.
Hen egg, charmoula, crispy beans. In contrast to the sardines, this dish is hearty and layered with delicious Moroccan flavors.
Couscous, chicken, prawn, lamb sausage, vegetables. Each ingredient in this dish is perfectly cooked, from the surf-and-turf of proteins to the fluffy couscous. Together they create a very well-balanced dish full of lusty flavors.
Spanish mackerel, vadouvan, marble potatoes, leaves, octopus. Another very successful dish. The tasty fish is complemented by a velvety vadouvan emulsion and nicely balanced accompaniments.
Aziza’s pastry chef, Melissa Chou, has the difficult challenge of following Mourad Lahlou’s outstanding cuisine. And she does it brilliantly. Her desserts are delicious and artfully presented–it is no coincidence Chou’s started her studies in art school.
Yogurt, mousse napoleon, walnut nougatine, fig, blackberry. A delicate and rich dessert layered beautifully in complementing textures and flavors.
Hazelnut, dacquoise, pear, burnt honey ice cream. Deliciously complex and satisfying, a great way to finish a remarkable meal.
In short
Mourad Lahlou came to San Francisco over 20 years ago to get his masters in Economics. Opening a restaurant was a welcomed accident. An accident that gave us one of the city’s best-hidden restaurants and is giving Moroccan cuisine an inventive, modern flair. If you have never been, Aziza is definitely worth a drive across town–or around the world, depending on how you look at it.
Aziza is at 5800 Geary Blvd
Online reservations
Burger Bar, San Francisco
Hubert Keller’s CV is impressive. Born in Alsace, France, he started his career as a pastry chef and worked in several Michelin 3-star restaurants shadowing culinary icons like Paul Bocuse and Gaston Lenôtre. Since then, Keller–who you may wonder–bears no relation to Thomas Keller, has collected a myriad of awards including James Beard’s best chef in California and Food and Wine’s top 10 chefs in America. His charming personality also made him a celebrity chef with his own TV show on PBS and several appearances on Bravo’s Top Chef. But Keller’s claim to fame can be attributed to his 23-year tenure at Fleur de Lys, one of San Francisco’s most renowned fine dining restaurants.
When I heard Keller had opened a burger restaurant in Las Vegas I knew I had to try it. Fine-dining restaurant burgers have been around for a while; a whole restaurant dedicated to it sounded like a great idea. And that it seemed was exactly what everyone else thought. Unfortunately the 2-hour wait didn’t fit my tight schedule and I had to leave it for another time. Before I finally gave up though, I remember looking around and feeling something wasn’t right. It looked cheap, not in a good way. I blamed it on Vegas.
After several months of rumors and anticipation, Burger Bar finally opened in San Francisco. Despite the questionable location, I couldn’t wait to finally give it a try.
I put my preconceptions aside and tried to forget for a moment that I was going to dine at Macy’s–there are great restaurants in the city that have managed to keep their atmosphere independent from the monolithic buildings in which they’re housed. Luce and RN74 come to mind. Burger Bar is accessible by elevator from Macy’s main lobby, right across from the entrance to The Cheesecake Factory. No preconceptions, right? You can’t judge a restaurant by its neighbors; just remember, COI is surrounded by strip clubs.
As the elevator moved up, stopping on every floor, keeping an open mind was becoming more and more difficult. Fragrance & Beauty, Sportswear, Wedding Registry and, there it was, Burger Bar.
The design of the 235-seat dining room makes no effort to keep its privacy from the retail environment that surrounds it. A large glass wall serves as a constant reminder that the dinnerware department is right outside. Floor to ceiling windows give diners a wide view of Union Square. But other than the outside views, what you see inside is puzzling at best.
Non-descript granite tables, leatherette chairs, mahogany booths with table-level TV screens and a handful of beer brands neon signs. A hodgepodge of sports bar paraphernalia with faux casual elegance that lacks personality and style. Like a themed restaurant that hasn’t found its theme. Or simply, a sad version of TGI Friday’s. However you look at it, it looks cheap and tacky. Las-Vegas-tacky.
Perhaps one of the most glaring indications that the restaurant carries the stylistic heritage of its birthplace is the dismembered torso that proudly displays the chain’s classy merchandise. For sale, black bikini underwear with a prominent Burger Bar logo in front–perfect for using with sweatpants that say “Juicy” on the back. Again, classy.
The menu
The laminated multi-page menu is as colorful as a theme park brochure. Complete with mouth-watering pictures of burgers and the more questionable photo of Mr. Keller by his motorcycle. But unlike The Cheesecake Factory or Friday’s (both feature similar-looking menus), here the fare is focused. As the name suggests, this is a place for burgers. Burgers of all kinds.
There are 8 burgers recommended by the chef. From the simpler American classic–a plain cheeseburger ($14.50) to the famously expensive Rossini–made with Kobe beef, foie gras and truffles ($60). Substitutions on these burgers can’t be made–why would the chef’s integrity to be compromised anyway?
Diners can customize their own burgers form countless combinations of 8 meat patties and 46 accompaniments. There are toppings for all tastes, from bacon ($1.15) to black truffles ($30). Even a half lobster ($12) can be piled on for a true surf-and-turf experience; Vegas style. Your final burger cost will depend on how excited you get when placing your order but in average expect to pay between $13 and $20, not including fries. Definitely not cheap.
The meal
A chef’s burger is often distinguished by the quality of its ingredients and the care in its preparation. And that’s something that, for the most part, you won’t miss at Burger Bar. Keller’s patties are tall, meaty and juicy. Accompaniments are well prepared and nicely balanced.
Hubert Keller Burger. Made with buffalo meat, served with caramelized onions, baby spinach and blue cheese on a ciabatta bun. Keller’s namesake sandwich is noted on the menu as his favorite choice. Although I ordered mine medium and what I got was well over medium well, this is a good burger. With a nice layering of flavors and textures.
From the custom menu, Country Natural beef patty with cheddar on a sesame bun. On the side, Fleur de Lys’ Peppercorn Cream Sauce. Once again, a good burger with a nicely shaped patty but nothing extraordinaire. The best thing here is definitely the sauce.
Black-and-white shake. Served at almost room temperature, with a thick, emulsified texture and a Disneyland-like presentation, it resembles a dessert more than what you would expect from a classic American shake.
The restaurant also serves a couple of “sweet burgers” for dessert. But after an underwhelming meal and a large shake, none of them looked that appealing.
In short
Hubert Keller is a great chef and his home, San Francisco, is one of the best gastronomic destinations in the country. A city that offers outstanding restaurant burgers. Burgers that are made with high-quality ingredients and exceptional talent by also great chefs. Burger Bar is a good idea but its execution is a big let down. The cheap ambiance doesn’t help, but even if you can ignore it, for what it is, the food is overpriced. If you want to try Keller’s cuisine, go to Fleur de Lys. For the best burger in town, go to Spruce. But beware, there you won’t find branded underwear.
Burger Bar is at Macy’s Union Square
No reservations are taken for parties under 13
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