Mobile eateries have been around for generations feeding blue-collar workers who crave a filling meal on a limited time and budget. On the west coast, the iconic taco trucks are sure to be found at lunchtime near any construction site. But beyond white-collars with the late night munchies and more open-minded foodies, few considered them as epicurean destinations. Now, what happened to other American classics like cupcakes and doughnuts, is happening to the taco truck. Gourmetization by gentrification.
In LA, the media darling Kogi BBQ serves handheld Korean-Mexican fare with a fine dining pedigree. Behind the wheels is Roy Choi, a chef who started out cooking at Le Bernardin in NY and more recently ran the kitchen at the 4-star Beverly Hilton restaurant in LA. Choi’s mobile menu includes Korean short ribs, spicy pork and tofu tacos prepared with high-end ingredients and packed with the flavor of carefully created marinates. But the food quality is responsible for only half of Kogi’s astronomical popularity–the truck commands lines of over one-hour wait and serves up to 600 customers a night. The other half comes from its 140-character marketing strategy.
In a curious twist on business economics, the one service that is yet to find its business model is empowering Kogi’s business to thrive. The truck has over 26 thousand Twitter followers that signed up to receive updates on where it will show up next. There’s no set agenda, locations are announced on the day; sometimes only a few hours ahead. Foodies and fans flock to tweeted addresses from all over town. Chasing the chef’s 2 trucks feels like the quest for “Where’s Fluffy” from “Nick and Norah’s infinite playlist”.
Kogi’s cult success inspired a myriad of copycats ranging from pure plagiarism to more original interpretations, kicking off a gastromobile trend.
In San Francisco, the Crème Brûlée Cart roams around the Mission district at night serving à la minute caramelized custards. Boccalone, purveyor of “tasty salted pig parts”, is sending its Salumi-Cycle to the Financial District during lunch hours. In its inaugural trip last week, the full load of 25 prosciutto paninis sold out in just 2 minutes–leaving dozens of hungry customers empty-handed. Other roaming food carts in the city include Sexy Soup Lady, Magic Curry Man and Mobile Pho Truck. Like Kogi, they all use Twitter to broadcast their locations, albeit to a much smaller audience.
Even Chez Spencer, the renowned French restaurant in the city, has launched a takeaway spin off in a converted taco truck. The concept follows the same gentrified gourmetization but isn’t quite as successful–the menu doesn’t have much of a street food flair and orders are said to take up to 45 minutes to be done.
This week in New York a converted pizza truck is hitting the road as Cupcake Stop. The owner is a law school dropout who put his bar exam on hold to sell cupcakes. He guarantees the confections are baked from scratch daily and expects to sell about 1,500 a day. Beyond announcing the truck’s location on Twitter, he is also using the social network to ask his followers for flavor suggestions. Over 500 submissions have already been sent.
But the idea of mobile eateries has always spurred some controversy. Neighborhood associations and local restaurants often see them as nuisances or threats. In mid 2008, Los Angeles passed an ordinance that required taco trucks to change location every hour (30 minutes in residential areas). A few weeks later a judge ruled the law unconstitutional allowing the trucks to conduct business in set locations. No shuffle required. The city of San Francisco, which has strict polices about street food, is constantly threatening to shut down unlicensed trucks and carts. Twitter is allowing mobile businesses to cultivate an ever-growing customer base while constantly changing their location.
But in the end, this is still restaurant business. A few months from now, many of these ventures will likely go out of business as fast as they hit the road. Diners will grow tired of niche menus and realize the long lines are not always worth braving. Unlike restaurants though, mobile eateries have the advantage of easily moving to a new spot and taking their fare to new fans. The most loyal Twitter fans will follow.
For now, until the fad goes out of fashion or legislators discover the wonders of 140-character social networking, we can enjoy the creativity and convenience of technology-powered gourmet street food. So get on Twitter and follow that truck.
Where to find?
In LA
@kogiBBQ
In NY
@CupcakeStop
In SF
@cremebruleecart
@sexysoupcart
@magiccurrykart
@boccalone
@whatthepho
@chezspencergo
Follow that taco truck!
The Moss Room, San Francisco
The Moss Room was inaugurated as part of the ambitious Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park. A groundbreaking architectural project featuring a living roof that was praised by design publications all around the globe. The restaurant occupies an underground space accessible through the building’s northwest corner. Make a note of that because at night, when the museum is closed, there’s little indication of where to go. With not a single person at sight, you may feel like in teenager horror movie, getting inside the deserted museum after hours when clearly something is about to go wrong. Cut to black.
Even inside, as you walk through the ground floor where the Academy Café unoccupied dining room rests quietly during closed hours, it makes you wonder if this is where you should be.
But keep walking and you’ll see the imposing living wall of stone, fern and moss that frames a sleek staircase leading one floor down.
Underneath it, a large pond refracts shimmering rays of light onto the room. A collection of beautiful Asian river fish swimming slowly.
As you walk downstairs, a modern dining room is revealed on your left. Handmade Douglas fir tables and diner booths well spaced under hand-blown glass pendants that appear to float in the air.
At the bar, a Carrara marble countertop is set over a red backlit frame. To its left, a glass-enclosed private dining room. The fish on the other side call it an aquarium for the human kind.
Lighting design is carefully laid out. Beyond the delicate pendants, spherical sconces pepper the walls in an organic sculpture that gives movement and depth to the space. The dimly lit room is intimate and warm. The atmosphere has an unfussy elegance only broken by the somewhat dysfunctional soundtrack–featuring anachronistic classics like Do Wah Diddy Diddy, Born to be Wild and California Dreaming.
The only two drawbacks are the office-like carpet and tall concrete columns that, despite adding a modern coolness to the space, dining at the small 2-top next to one of them makes you feel like eating in a parking garage. But overall, the interior design at The Moss Room is definitely something to be experienced and celebrated. Especially in San Francisco.
The menu
The Californian-Mediterranean fare is the work of Loretta Keller, the chef behind Coco500. By her side is Justin Simoneaux, a Louisiana-born chef who she brought with her from her SoMa restaurant. The seasonal menu is based on organic, sustainable ingredients and features about 22 items including starts (to share), appetizers, entrées and sides. Prices range from $8 to $14 for appetizers and $20 to $28 for main courses.
The meal
Sliced sourdough bread and soft butter kick off the meal. The small open kitchen works busily preparing all dishes but front of the house service still needs improvement.
To start, Crispy Squash Blossoms, salt cod, piquillo peppers, frisée. The salt cod brandade filling is tasty but the batter on the fried blossoms could be lighter and, honestly, crispier. You can barely notice the flower.
As an appetizer, Monterey Squid Spaghetti, squid ink, oven dried tomatoes, chilis, herbs. Without a doubt the best dish I had. Flavorful and lightly spicy, it has a nice balance of sweetness from the tomatoes and heat from the chilis. The presentation though is somewhat sloppy as the dish is covered in way too many parsley leaves.
Soup of the day: Potatoes and leeks. Lighter than a classic vichyssoise, the creamy soup is complemented with the two, diced vegetables for texture.
For entrée, Liberty Farms Duck Breast, “dirty” farro, pecans, cherries, balsamic. Tender, with a nice crispy skin, the duck outshines its accompaniment. Although the farro is done well, it does make you feel like eating something for its health benefits more than for its flavor. To be fair, farro is a popular Mediterranean ingredient that also happens to be good for your health.
Devil’s Gulch Rabbit Ravioli English peas, morel mushrooms, spring onions, pecorino. In this case, the accompaniments outshine the main ingredient. Morels and peas were great; the ravioli, okay at best.
To finish, Vacherin. Swiss meringue, coffee gelato, candied almonds, chocolate sauce. A rich dessert that despite the expected flavor combination is tasty and well made.
Chocolate Cherry Tart. Chocolate custard, brooks cherries, crème fraîche. Here, a must needed ice cream is absent. The tart is rich and tasty but is dry by itself. The crème fraîche refered on the name is nothing more than a ¼ of a teaspoon.
In short
The Moss Room has, hands down, the most original interior design in San Francisco. Arguably the first one to be excited about. Service and food still need maturing; while the restaurant is on par with the best designs in NY and LA, its fare is not quite there with the best of San Francisco. Places like Range, Town Hall and Spruce that also use sustainable ingredients are far more satisfying when it comes to the food. I often complaint about the lack of originality in San Francisco’s restaurant designs. Finally, for once, I stand corrected.
The Moss Room is at 55 Music Concourse Drive, Golden Gate Park
(Also unlike most SF restaurants, parking is abundant).
Online reservations
Asador Etxebarri, Spain
“After 4 kms, you will pass through Abadino, and should look out for a sign on the right marked "ATXONDO" and "Axpe". Taking this road, you will pass through Apatamonasterio and after 1 km, you will notice another turning for "Axpe" on your right. Following this winding road for another 1 km, you will arrive into the village.” 
The trip to Asador Etxebarri is an experience on itself. Sometimes, even turn-by-turn GPS doesn’t seem to find its way. But with a bit of patience (and luck), you’ll spot the 70 people village of Axpe; and right in the main square–between the church and the bocce ball court, stands the one of the 50 best restaurants in the world. Number 39 in fact, ahead of NYC’s Daniel and Paris’ Louis XV.
The quaint 18th century building blends in with the peaceful scenery of green pasture and Basque mountains around it. From outside, you hear the sound of sheep and running spring water. As you get closer, you notice the crackle hiss and aromas of the restaurant’s signature charcoal grill.
It’s said that nowhere else in the world you can experience such sophistication in what is the oldest form of cooking. Thanks to Victor Arguinzoniz, who since 1989 commands the kitchen at Etxebarri.
By his side is a personable Australian sous chef who built his career in Michelin starred restaurants before moving to Axpe for 6 moths and never leaving. Lennox is as passionate about his craft as his mentor. With scorched hands, he speaks about their culinary innovations with great excitement; and for a good reason. Victor has not only redefined charcoal grilling, he has reinvented it. He designed and built from scratch a state of the art kitchen, complete with 2 wood-fired ovens and a sleek customizable grill.
Only the 2 chefs run the grill during service hours giving each order their undivided attention. There’s a small prep kitchen in the back where a tank provides them with fresh oysters, prawns, eels, lobsters and other live seafood ingredients. And this is really what it’s all about; the ingredients.
Fresh seafood, local meat from neighborhood farms, eggs from passersby chicken; even the water comes from the local springs. Each ingredient is treated with utmost respect and prepared on the grill until just cooked. The chef uses different types of wood for each protein and each order gets its own batch of charcoal. It takes the concept of “grilled to perfection” to a whole new level.
The chef has designed custom tools that allow him to grill things not usually put over charcoal. Caviar and risotto come to mind. And the result will blow you away (more on that later).
In the main dining room, about 10 well-spaced tables dressed in pristine white linens fill the quaint, minimalist space. A few scattered plants and that's it for interior design. The atmosphere reflects the simplicity of the restaurant’s cuisine. Through the windows, you can see the pastures outside. Victor’s wife runs the front of the house. The feeling is of eating in a rustic home in a small Basque village. Very different from Arzak's sleek atmosphere. To complete, no English is spoken by the wait staff.
The menu
The wood bound menu is presented in Spanish, Euskara and English. It is printed every morning based on what’s available that day. Twenty dishes are listed with no categorization of appetizers or entrées. Descriptions are brief, often just pointing out the main ingredient. The prices may intimidate the unadvised tourist that stopped here without knowing what to expect. One curious thing is that, of all the items on the menu, there’s not a single vegetable dish, not even a side dish. But this is Spain after all.
The meal
To start, house made Chorizo. Delicate and buttery, the deep red of pimentón bleeding on the plate.
Next, Caviar Assado. Etxebarri’s signature dish is a result of several years of experience on the grill. A special pan was designed with a thin wire mesh as the base where the roe is carefully laid. The pan is placed over seaweed and grilled on applewood charcoal. It took some trial and error to find the ideal caviar as it requires a higher natural fat content to survive the grilling process. The answer came from Iran. Every other week, a fresh batch of unpasteurized organic beluga comes from the Middle East and stays on the menu just for a few days thereafter.
The grilled caviar is simply served on a white porcelain dish. The appearance doesn’t differ much from its raw state but when you put it in your mouth, the flavor is jaw dropping. Warm, lightly smoky, sweet and buttery. Fantastic, unlike anything I ever had. About a tablespoon of it goes for 50 Euros; it’s worth every cent.
As an appetizer, Grilled baby octopus. Perfectly cooked, moist and tasty.
For entrée, Grilled salt-cod. A generous cut of cod grilled until just cooked to keep the flesh moist and tender. Served with roasted sweet onions, red peppers and a dash of pil pil sauce–an emulsion of fish juices, olive oil and garlic.
Desserts at Etxebarri are also surprisingly good. Curiously, the dessert menu is not available in English so some deciphering may be necessary. If in doubt, let the wait staff choose or you.
Flan de queso fresco. A delicious custard made with fresh cheese and local eggs. Creamy and lightly tart.
Rulo crujiente relleno de helado de queso Idiazabal granizado de txakolí. Like a canolli, but thinner, it’s filled with sheep’s cheese ice cream, topped with sparkling white wine granita and served with whipped cream.
To finish, house made milk and honey muffins.
In short
In one of the most inventive culinary regions in the world, at a time where avant garde cooking is more popular than ever, there’s something to be said about Victor Arguinzoniz’s choice to perfect to the simplest form of cooking. The chef is a friend of Ferran Adrià who often comes here to enjoy the simplicity of “la brasa” cuisine. Etxebarri’s innovations are focused on making the most out of each ingredient with respect and perfectionism. Even though spheres, foams and airs won’t be found here, Etxebarri’s sophisticated simplicity will likely take you by surprise.
Asador Etxebarri is at Plaza San Juan, 48291 Axpe
Online reservations
Arzak, Spain
Arzak’s 1897 building blends in with most taverns in the Basque country; a simple structure that while some would say bears little reference to modern fine dining, is just like many outstanding Relais & Châteaux restaurants in Europe; authentic and discreet. But I have to admit I was somewhat suspicious when I first saw the nondescript building and its quirky sign depicting a food tray in its still life glory. Can this be the address of one of the most celebrated Michelin 3-stars restaurants of all time; number 8 in the Worlds’ 50 Best Restaurants list? But somehow it all made sense; after all, I was in San Sebastian.
The seaside resort town of San Sebastian is, if not the gastronomical capital of the world, one of the most sought after epicurean destinations. Donostia, how it’s called in the Basque language, has the highest number of Michelin stars per capita and over 30 gastronomic clubs–curiously, all for men only. About 100km east of Bilbao, this small town attracts foodies from all around the planet that come here to experience gastronomy like nowhere else. That’s exactly why I came.
Inside Arzak’s building, the experience is anything but nondescript. As you walk in, you see a small waiting room with a hotel-like front desk. Check in and “Swoosh!” Two sleek frosted glass doors slid open automatically revealing a modern dining room in stark contrast to what you had seen so far. One step forward and you’re a century ahead.
The dining room expands 2 floors with a circular staircase in the middle, about 20 well-spaced tables in total. Their pristine linen tablecloth glowing white against the dark palette with minimalist flower arrangements adding subtle warmth. Close-up photos of pots and pans blown up in black and white on the walls.
The atmosphere is elegant, modern and intimate. And even though this is fine dining at its best, it’s not overly formal; jackets are not required, the lighting is brighter than usual and you’ll find salt and pepper on the table.
The most popular table in the restaurant though is not in the fancy dining room but right in the kitchen. The chef’s table is where personalities, friends and family come to experience Arzak’s cuisine right where it all happens. If you watched Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations in Spain, this is where he ate.
Back in the dining room, service is sharp but approachable; the wait staff is courteous and efficient yet there’s no excessive formality. But here too innovation and tradition come together flawlessly. Dressed in modern titanium-colored aprons, the servers take an active role in each dish’s presentation; many times finishing the preparation by pouring the sauces at the table. The chef himself makes sure his guests are happy coming to each table at the beginning and end of the meal and talking to English-speaking diners with the help of an interpreter. He is personable and enthusiastic, a man you can’t help but want to meet, even if you don’t know who he is. But in Spain and in epicurean circles, it seems everyone knows Juan Mari Arzak.
The 66-year-old chef is credited for creating the modern Spanish cuisine. In 1976, after being exposed to the French Nouvelle Cuisine at a roundtable that included luminaries like Paul Bocuse, Juan Mari returned to San Sebastian determined to change the path of his cuisine–and with that he changed the whole culinary world. The New Basque Cuisine was born and in 1989 Arzak became Spain’s first Michelin 3-star restaurant–a status held until this day, 20 years in a roll. In the years that followed, Arzak’s innovations inspired a myriad of chefs around the country; one of them, Ferran Adrià. Today, Juan Mari runs the restaurant together with his daughter, Elena, who is being prepared to continue her family’s legacy for the 4th generation–even though her father has no plans to retire.
The menu
The menu changes constantly based on seasonal ingredients and latest innovations. A visit to San Sebastian’s market reveals an amazing breadth of ingredients fresh from the ocean. Just off the boat fish, unrecognizable mollusks and lobsters the size of lab puppies. Like Thomas Keller, Arzak also has long-term relationships with local purveyors that guarantee the restaurant with the freshest produce.
Innovation on the other hand comes from inside; from Juan Mari and Elena’s relentless desire to invent. In the sleek stainless steel kitchen, 30 cooks work nonstop, meticulously preparing each dish and constantly learning from the master. On the top floor of the building is the “Flavor Bank”; a kitchen laboratory containing over 1000 ingredients where the chefs concept and test new concoctions.
Even though à la carte dining is available, you hardly see a table divert from the chef’s tasting menu. Why would you? The tasting menu is described with simplicity and a curious playfulness. “Eggs of the moment”, “Fish of the day”, “Meat”. It’s a menu confiance. Like at The French Laundry, to experience the best of the chef’s cuisine, you should simply let yourself in the hands of the chef.
The meal
The experience of eating at Arzak is unlike any other. The enthusiasm of the chef is translated to the wait staff and contagious to the guests. It creates anticipation and higher and higher expectations at every dish. Yet it never disappoints.
The meal starts going back to traditional Spanish roots; bread and olive oil. From there, a myriad of avant-garde amuse bouches are served together, some on custom-made backlit trays that resemble photographic light boxes. Suddenly, you are surrounded by bite-sized treats that peak your curiosity and tease your appetite. You feel like a kid in a candy store.
Caldito de alubia negra con queso. Black bean cream with cheese on a shot glass.
Puding de kabrarroka con fideos fritos. Rockfish pudding fried in a crispy noodles crust.
Raíz de loto con mousse de arraitxiki. Toasted lotus root slivers with fish mousse.
Morcilla en tempura. Blood sausage tempura.
The first course; Manzana con aceite de foie. An exceptional combination of crispy apples with a foamy caramelized foie gras. The rich foie is nicely complemented by the acidity of the apples, raspberry segments and finished with foie oil.
Alternatively, Ostras vegetales. The name of this dish (vegetable oysters) is a play on a Spanish vegetable called “oja de ostra” (oyster leaf); a single crunchy leaf is served with 2 beautiful plump oysters over a delicate tartar, sea beans and olive oil.
For the second course, Patata, bogavante y copaiba. Lobster in a crunchy potato shell served with a flavorful lobster sauce.
On the side, a delicate tapioca and orange salad.
Alternatively, Las formas del asparrágo. A minimalist presentation of peak of the season white asparagus in all its forms. And here’s when you realize how the simple respect for the ingredient can result in outstanding flavors. How can asparagus be this good?
Next, Del huevo a la gallina (from the egg to the chicken, or “Egg of the minute” as called on the English menu). A play on what came first; the chicken or the egg. Here, the beautifully poached egg is served under a thin yolk film and finished at the table with a rich chicken broth. Delicate yet intensively flavorful.
Then, the fish of the day. A filet of monkfish so perfect it appears it took a whole fish of carving to get to it. Accompanied by a lightly gelatinous vegetable sauce so flavorful it could convert the most devoted of carnivores. The Rape bronceado (bronzed monkfish) as it’s called, is brushed with a metallic bronze color that complements its perfectly seared flesh. I don’t recall ever in my life eating a fish dish this good.
On the side, a blade of onions and bronze that packs the surprising flavor of the sweetest of onions when it dissolves in your mouth. Let me be clear, this is no gold leaf garnish–those you see on top of chocolate cakes. It has form and function. Prize and purpose. Here, what looks beautiful tastes even better.
As an option to the monkfish; Lenguado con aceite de jengibre y pan de coco. Also perfectly done, the sole is served with ginger oil and coconut bread–think meringue.
Diners can select the protein in the meat course between beef, lamb, foie or pigeon. I had the latter; Pichón con perdigones dulces. Another playful title that pairs the bird with “sweet birdshot pellets”.
A sweet rice vinegar reduction is encapsulated in metallic lead colored spheres. Mixed with round cut potatoes and blue potato spheres, they form a colorful backdrop to what may very well be the best meat dish I ever had. Tender, juicy and deliciously seared with a salty, crispy skin. Absolutely unforgettable, in every flavor note.
For dessert, Sopa y chocolate “entre viñedos”. A wonderful combination of warm liquid chocolate spheres and basil ice cream on a red berries soup.
Chocolate y lombarda. Thin, colorful red cabbage pastry crisps surrounding a rich, creamy chocolate ganache. Served with chocolate and rosemary ice cream.
To finish, Dulce lunático. A bonbon of caramel and orange juice served with red wine reduction. Each bonbon explodes at first bite releasing the sweet juice. On the side, pumpkin ice cream.
The chef’s take on a pina colada. Piña assada pomposa. Grilled pineapple served with coconut milk poured over dry ice to creates a frothy, sauce à la minute. On the side, grilled pineapple ice cream.
The meal ends how it begins; with a myriad of bite-sized sweets that are impossible to resist–even if by now you are completely full. The mignardises include Dulce de pina (pineapple preserve), Bean truffle with white chocolate, chocolate with caramel, chocolate with beet film and a rice pudding on a thin apricot blade.
When Juan Mari Arzak returned to the dining room and stopped at our table, he was grinning cheerfully. Like a maestro that had just finished a perfect performance. His satisfaction only second to mine.
In short
In Europe some of the best restaurants are far from the main cities. Arzak is one of them. And possibly the reason it is so successful is because of exactly where it stands. In San Sebastian, and nowhere else. There are no other addresses, no branches, no franchises. The chef on the cover of the cookbook is the chef in the kitchen. Everyday, for every dish.
In an interview with the Spanish magazine Club de Gourmets, Juan Mari was quoted by saying “Beyond stomachs, we feed the souls.” Arzak’s cuisine goes far beyond surprising, it is endlessly rewarding. A beautiful play of flavors, textures and temperatures that involve all senses like no other cuisine I have ever tried. Everything has a purpose, innovation is never gratuitous.
In rare occasions I use a tape recorder instead of taking quick notes, I let it running in my pocket for the whole duration of the meal and later play it through to jot down my impressions. When listening to this 3-hour long recording, it was amusing to hear my spontaneous, almost child-like reactions dish after dish. Among exclamations that are not quite fit to print, what I kept saying over and over was a single word: “Wow”. And for someone that tends to dwell at length about exceptional dining experiences, I have to admit that that sums it up better than anything else I could possibly say.
Arzak is at Avda. Alcalde Jose Elosegui, 273, San Sebastian
Online reservations
Raviolo di ricotta at 
