Best Bay Area restaurant. Period.

The French Laundry
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that Thomas Keller’s flagship restaurant takes the top prize. No other restaurant is as outstanding in every aspect of dining experience. From impeccable service to exceptional cuisine, dining at The French Laundry is an experience impossible to forget. Maybe because of its unparallel level or perfection; maybe because it challenges your preconceptions of how perfect a dining experience can be.

Best Bay Area original design

No winner
You may have read my frequent criticisms San Francisco’s dining scene. Point is, I think the Bay Area has some of the best restaurants in the world. Period. But while all the focus seems to go on the food and service, the architecture and design are, simply put, boring. Read on.


Runner-up



Foreign Cinema
Foreign Cinema wins points more for the originality of its concept than for the execution. But the idea of a fine dining drive-in is great; and even if you never look at the screen, the atmosphere it creates its absolutely worth it.

Honorable mentions



Spruce
The elegant dining room at Spruce makes one of the most beautiful restaurant interiors in the city. With imposing high ceilings, a bright skylight and remarkable art on the walls, it’s less about originality but definitely about good taste.




Pizzeria Delfina
There’s nothing fancy about this tiny restaurant. Every nook is taken, no space is left unused. People pack inside and outside waiting for their turn to sit. So what’s so original about Pizzeria Delfina? The atmosphere. And it’s all about the loud soundtrack.


Well worth a trip



Bazaar, LA
In the signature Philippe Starck look, a whimsical mix and match of styles where antique and hyper-modern are curiously rendered together. Four distinct dining rooms, each one with its own personality offer guests an immersive, fun dining experience. I call it a dining and design wonderland.




Lever House, NY
The restaurant was designed from the ground up by Marc Newson, one of the most prolific designers of his generation. With an investment of 5 Million dollars, Newson created a retro modern interior that paid homage to the 50s’ vision of the future while being enviously contemporary. In my opinion, the most beautifully designed restaurant in NY. Unfortunately, Lever House closed its doors in April leaving behind just the memory of an outstanding space.

Best Bay Area restaurant desserts

Town Hall
With the hearty portions at Town Hall, it’s hard to leave room for desserts. But with the restaurant’s enviable selection of beautifully prepared sweets, it would be a mistake not to. My favorite, Butterscotch and chocolate pot the crème topped with butter crunch.


Runners-up



Range
Pastry chef Michelle Polzin creates inventive desserts that are fresh and flavorful. Like the Chocolate crêpes with pink grapefruit, chocolate gelato and pink peppercorns.



Bouchon
Thomas Keller’s restaurant serves carefully prepared bistro desserts like Mousse au chocolat and Pot de crème. And of course, Bouchons–the small chocolate brownie-like treats named for their cork-like shape.


Honorable mention



Mission Beach Cafe
MBC’s house made pies and cakes are among the best in the city. Well worth ordering as dessert; even better as takeout–the restaurant sells whole pies to go.

Well worth a trip



WD-50, NY
Alex Stupak, the renowned pastry chef from Alinea today runs the dessert station at wd-50 in NY. His desserts are imaginative and flavorful combining avant garde molecular gastronomy techniques and tasty concoctions.

Best Bay Area restaurant Burger

Spruce
Skip the reservation, get in early and order the burger at the bar. It may very well be the best one you’ll ever have. But more than a juicy, tasty organic beef patty; this is about what comes with it. Real Roquefort cheese or aged cheddar; picked onions, thinly sliced pickles and the impossibly-good duck fat fries. Optionally; bacon, house cured pancetta and even foie gras can be added on. And, because this is Spruce, great service, gougères and mignardises come standard.


Runner-up



Spork
Spork’s in-side-out burger is made with 2 all natural grass fed patties, caramelized onions, tillamook cheddar and smashed fries. But don’t expect to hold it in your hands; this fork and knife burger has no bun.

Honorable mention



Zuni
Probably one of the most famous in the city. Zuni’s house-ground hamburger on grilled rosemary focaccia with garden lettuces, aïoli, and pickles is perfect for a late night snack.


Well worth a trip

DB Brasserie
Daniel Boulud extravagant burger is made with 9oz sirloin beef, stuffed with braised short ribs and foie gras and served with black truffle, Parmesan bun and French fries. But beware; eating the 4-inch tall sandwich takes a mouth wide open and a fat wallet.

Best Bay Area Pizzeria

Pizzeria Delfina
The pizzeria is as popular as the namesake restaurant next door. And for a good reason; the food is as good here as it is there. Albeit with a simpler, more casual menu; appetizers, pizzas and desserts are always great.


Runner-up



Gialina
If you compare apples to apples–or pizzas to pizzas, Gialina has the best in town. Thin-crust Neapolitan-style pies with inventive toppings that celebrate Italian and local ingredients. Like Pork belly with tomato, red onion, oregano and taleggio.


Honorable mention



Beretta
The star here are not the pies themselves–although they are good too, but what you can add to them. Like the delicious and generously portioned burrata. Guaranteed to make heads turn.

Best Bay Area small plates

No winner
Although I don’t think there’s an outstanding small plates restaurant in the city, many serve exceptional appetizers that can be ordered as small plates. Here’s a list of the top 10 you can’t miss.


Runner-up



Beretta
This lively Mission district restaurant serves a good selection of Italian small plates. Flavorful bite-size food in an unfussy atmosphere. Try the Bruschette of fava bean & pecorino.


Well worth a trip



Bazaar, LA
If you like small plates, Bazaar is definitely worth a trip. José Andrés restaurant serves traditional and modern Spanish tapas that will blow you away. Start with the Philly cheese steak.

Best Bay Area Brunch

Ad Hoc
What if you could have one of the world’s top chefs prepare you breakfast? Well, you can. Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc serves an outstanding 3-course brunch menu that will redefine your preconception of a morning meal.


Runners-up



Foreign Cinema
With one of the most appetizing brunch menus in the city, Foreign Cinema serves a good variety of carefully prepared dishes, savory and sweet. The restaurant has an ample, attractive space that includes a coveted outside patio.



Universal Cafe
The standing crowd outside may intimidate at first sight but the brunch at Universal Cafe is well worth the wait. The popular restaurant offers a carefully prepared, inventive morning fare. Don’t miss the doughnuts.


Honorable mentions



Maverick
Take advantage of the fact that the restaurant accepts reservations and enjoy the new American brunch menu that includes must haves like Andouille Sausage Benedict and Doughnut holes.



Zuni Cafe
In the morning light, this San Francisco institution offers a welcoming, bright atmosphere, whether you sit inside or outside. Zuni is the perfect place for a more mature, sophisticated brunch meal.



Canteen
Dennis Leary’s tiny TenderNob eatery serves a small selection of tasty brunch dishes but one deserves special attention. The Blueberry French toast with sweet cream cheese. I’d say the best in town.


Well worth a trip:



Prune, NY
At this small lower east side restaurant, The ambiance is charming, service is prompt and the food is simply delightful. But if this is not enough to convince you, there’s only one more thing I can say: Merveilles.

Best Bay Area casual dining

Bouchon
Just 2 blocks down the street from The French Laundry, you can get a table at Bouchon and try Thomas Keller’s exceptional cuisine. The casual restaurant offers authentic French bistro fare prepared with top quality ingredients and unparallel sophistication.


The Runners-up



Range
One of San Francisco’s most beloved restaurants serves contemporary American fare in an inventive yet honest celebration of flavors and ingredients. With a friendly atmosphere and exceptional service, it’s hard not to love Range.



Delfina
There’s a reason tables are booked weeks in advance and walk-in parties sign up for very long waits. Craig Stoll’s Italian cuisine is second to none. With delicious appetizers, pastas, meats and desserts; even if you can’t beat the crowds, you’ll find it worth the wait.


Honorable mention



Ad Hoc
Ad Hoc brings together the casual comfort of family-style dining with the coveted high-end cuisine of the chef behind The French Laundry. A carefully orchestrated simplicity designed to make you feel at home; Thomas Keller’s home that is.


Well worth a trip



wd-50, NY
Wylie Dufresne’s cuisine challenges conventional expectations. His inventive combinations of flavors and textures are artfully presented in a tasting menu that never ceases to surprise. All in a casual, friendly atmosphere.

Best Bay Area casual elegant dining

Spruce
Mark Sullivan’s interpretation of contemporary American cuisine is inventive and appetizing. Beyond flavor-packed dishes like the honey-lacquered duck breast with foie gras, the restaurant has one of the best high-end charcuterie programs in the city. Add that to the stellar wait staff and you can be sure to have an exceptional dining experience.


The runner-up



Town Hall
Chefs/brothers Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal first restaurant in San Francisco is still their best. Serving inventive preparations of American classics with a southern flair, this is comfort food at its best. Sophisticated yet soulful.


Honorable mention



Luce
If you can ignore the corporate monolith that houses Luce as you cruise the Intercontinental hotel lobby towards the restaurant, you’re in for a treat. Chef Dominique Crenn is as talented in the kitchen as she is charming the dining room stopping at each table to greet her diners.


Well worth a trip



Bazaar, LA
José Andrés high-end tapas are simply put, exceptional. The restaurant serves over 60 traditional Spanish small plates and modern renditions using avant garde molecular gastronomy. The Liquid mozzarella caprese come to mind. Don’t believe everything you see but trust me, everything will be amazing.




Craft NY / Craft LA
Tom Colicchio’s flagship restaurants serve fine dining family style. Despite the somewhat complicated menu, you can order with confidence; everything is of great quality and very well prepared. But if you order one thing, get the octopus.

Best Bay Area fine dining

The French Laundry
Market-fresh menus are so last week. In addition to his personal relationships with top purveyors around the country, Keller’s 3-acre backyard supply the restaurant with seasonal garden-fresh produce every day. In the hands of his talented chefs, these ingredients come together in a beautiful harmony of flavors, textures and temperatures. Fourteen courses that are individually perfect and work perfectly together. Simply put, you won’t eat better anywhere else.


The runner-up



COI
Avant garde molecular gastronomy is often gratuitous and, when it comes to flavors, sometimes disappointing. Not at COI. Daniel Patterson’s cuisine surprises the mind and soul with an elaborate sequence of dishes that I called “an amusement park for taste buds”. Several months later, I still remember clearly most dishes I had, their flavor notes and how they made me feel. That on itself is a pretty priceless thing.


Honorable mention



Michael Mina
Mina’s signature trios–dishes in which one main ingredient is prepared 3 different ways–add an extra layer of engagement to the dining experience. A 3-course tasting menu becomes 9 different things you’ll try. The preparations are thoughtful and fun, despite the excessive formality of the wait staff.


Well worth a trip



Per Se, NY
Dining at Per Se is perhaps the easiest way to go to The French Laundry. But despite some welcoming similarities–like a few signature dishes and strive to perfection; Keller’s east coast restaurant deserves credit of its own. Starting with the enviable view of Central Park.

The best of No Salad

So here we are, one year later. Sixty reviews, hundreds of meals, thousands of photographs, countless pounds of butter and hopefully not so many cholesterol points–results coming soon.

In the past 12 months, I dined out more than the previous 2 years combined and had many memorable meals worth writing about. And to think it all started with one terrible dinner. One that made me want to tell the world about it, even if by then, telling the world meant a handful of Googlers that serendipitously found my post. But there were more good meals than bad meals and those were even more rewarding to talk about.

Thing is, I always loved food and, despite the skinny figure, people always asked me where to eat. That’s why I kept writing about the good and the bad meals. For you, the people that take the time to read my often long reviews. And for you, who simply want to know where to go, here comes the Cliffs notes. So here it is; The Best of No Salad. A recap of the best dining experiences in the Bay Area and around the country. A year’s worth of meals; one epicure’s opinion.

Best Bay Area fine dining
Best Bay Area casual elegant dining
Best Bay Area casual dining
Best Bay Area Brunch
Best Bay Area small plates
Best Bay Area restaurant Burger
Best Bay Area restaurant desserts
Best Bay Area original design
Best Bay Area restaurant. Period.


Eat vicariously.

Craft, Los Angeles

After my first visit to Tom Colicchio’s NYC restaurant, Craft became one of my East Coast favorites. A place I’m be happy to go back, over and over. I wrote about the chef’s expansion of his flagship brand into a nationwide gastronomic empire. So when my job moved me temporarily to Los Angeles–admittedly not my favorite dining destination in the US, I thought I’d give the West Coast version of Craft a try. At least a couple of times.

Located in Century City near the 20th Century Fox lot, Craft’s neighborhood is like a high-end office park. A small downtown away from downtown where during the day power lunches determine the next summer blockbuster and spring lawsuit. But at night, as the executives drive their fancy cars home, there’s as much life outside as in an apocalyptical movie; right after the apocalypse. Nested on the base of the city’s twin towers, the restaurant’s modern structure glows like a full moon on a dark night.



The architectural project is enviable. Unlike in NY where a beautiful interior design was created to fill an existing open space; here everything was built from ground up. An ample structure designed in mid-century modern style with long straight lines, stark simplicity and, because this is LA; cabanas.



Inside, the L-shaped space is divided in 2 areas. Craftbar, which attempts to offer a more relaxed atmosphere for drinks, dinner and air kisses; and the formal dining room. Like in NY, the interior design is exceptional. Elegant and modern; warm and chic. And the table arrangement is not shy to show who is there to see and be seen. On the left side, a handful of power booths outfitted with u-shaped banquettes and separated by metal mesh curtains, give VIP diners a privileged view of the room.



Intrecciato leather chairs and solid wood tables fill the rest of the space under Craft’s trademark array of filament bulbs and a rounded ceiling reminiscent of the late Lever House in NY. At the end of the room, a wall-to-wall wine rack stands behind thick glass.



While there are many similarities with the NY restaurant, dining at Craft LA is an original experience. The service for one is far superior. While in NY the wait staff was inpatient and somewhat arrogant; in LA they were engaged and well trained. The food is, simply put, as good as in NY.


The menu

And in keeping with the comparisons, the LA menu–which is clearly influenced by Californian ingredients, is as complicated as NY’s. The difference is that with better service, deciding on your order is a less painful process. Everything at Craft is served family style. First, second and main courses as well as side dishes can be ordered from a long list of options and combined as you wish.



Menu descriptions are short and bare, only main ingredients and techniques are noted. But everything is very well prepared and the actual dishes are much more elaborate than what the menu suggests. In other words, you can trust the chef, no matter what you order. The challenge is really what to order. What goes well with what and what compliments it better. If in doubt, don’t be afraid to ask.


The meal



The meal begins with an amuse bouche like the delicate Cucumber gelée with radishes. Gougères were served on my first visit, although I never got to try them. Somehow our table was forgotten.



Spanish Octopus & Greek Yoghurt. Without a doubt, my favorite dish on the menu. Craft’s roasted octopus is exceptional. Tender and nicely charred, served with crispy cubeb peppers and chickpea fritters.



Fennel Sausage Raviolini & Manila Clams. A nice compliment to the Octopus, flavorful and lightly spicy, the house made pasta is topped with tat soy and chili peppers.



Veal Sweetbreads & Sage. Tender and juicy, served with grilled pineapple, caramelized onions and fried sage. Although the pineapple brings a nice contrast to the richness of the veal glands, its sweetness can be overpowering.



Berkshire Pork Rack, Belly & Sausage. A pork smorgasbord, roasted with Vadouvan curry, each part is perfectly cooked and flavorful. Served with a tasty reduction, rice beans and pickled radishes for a bright acidic contrast.



As a side, Market Cauliflower. A colorful mix of roasted heirloom cauliflower served with Marcona almonds over a bed of cauliflower purée.



Hen of the wood mushrooms. One of the most enthusiastically recommended side dishes in both NY and LA. The wait staff says it’s a must. I say it’s pretty good.



Muscovy Duck & Castelfranco Radicchio. Roasted barely past rare, the rich red meat is complemented nicely by the sweetness of orange segments and zest as well as the light bitterness of the braised radicchio. A brighter version of the classic Duck a L’orange.



On the site, Tuscan Kale. Braised, the remarkably flavorful and hearty dark leafy green is a chef’s favorite.



Before dessert, Craft offers a sweet amuse bouche like the strange combination of Butterscotch panna cotta with green apple granita or, in my second visit, the better Hibiscus soda and meyer lemon sorbet served in a shot glass with a mini straw.



The restaurant’s cheese cart is modest but offers a nice variety of American and a few European cheeses like Variation #1 from Andante Dairy in California and Queso de Mano from Colorado.



Craft has an extensive selection of house made ice creams, gelatos and sorbets including unconventional flavors like the great Fennel sorbet I had in NY. In LA, I tried Rosemary Toffee, Brown Butter and Maple Bacon. The first was my favorite; the other 2 lacked the presence of flavor I was expecting.



From the desserts list, Red Velvet Cake with Sour Cherries, Cocoa Nib & Cream Cheese Gelato. Here, the ice cream overshadows the arguably unremarkable cake. Not a bad dessert but nothing I’d order again.



Peanut Butter Cup with Peanut Brittle, Caramel Gelée & Caramel Gelato. This luscious dessert offers a nice play of textures on a classic all-American pairing.


In short

Tom Colicchio’s LA branch of his flagship restaurant won’t disappoint. Its design is an oasis in a dreary neighborhood and its food is as good as in its NY counterpart. The family style presentations break the formality of a fine dining experience while maintaining the same level of quality. I call it faux casual fine dining.



Craft is at 10100 Constellation Boulevard
Online reservations