The name once associated with a talented chef behind the stoves at Aqua in San Francisco today brands a small hospitality empire with 17 restaurants and enterprise-level staff titles like Vice Presidents and Corporate Pastry Chef. His signature sprawls over 7 US states and Mexico on a myriad of restaurant concepts. But like a fashion designer, the Egyptian-born chef reserves his full name for his flagship restaurant, Michael Mina.
The original address that started Mina’s franchise is right on Union Square, the touristic heart of San Francisco. Adjacent to the lobby of the Westin St. Francis hotel, the dining room enjoys the privacy of a quiet mezzanine with imposing high ceilings and tall Greek Ionic columns. To compensate for the grandiosity of the space, dim lights attempt to create a more intimate atmosphere–and not so favorable conditions for good food photography, I may add.
The muted earthy palette is contrasted only by the outside neon lights diffused through sheer panels covering the windows. More than an artifice of privacy, it’s a sign of exclusivity; while you can see some of the outside, passersby can’t peek in.
Tables are set with fine white linen, silver napkin rings, delicate crystal glassware and beautiful one of a kind mother pearl shells. On the center, a round arabesque votive candle holder the size of a small cake.
Like other things, service here is about pomp and circumstance. Dishes are placed on the table in perfect unison by an infantry of servers, all sharply dressed in black. The words “Ma’am” and “Sir” finishing every sentence. But the formality becomes cold when dishes are described with an unnecessary monarchic aloofness. Imagine a server that recites each dish composition while keeping her head high, looking towards the ceiling like in a Shakespearean soliloquy. A show of confidence that can come across as distant and even pedantic.
Restaurants like The French Laundry, COI and Per Se, a category that Michael Mina attempts to fit in, have proven that exclusivity and sophistication can be warm and approachable.
The menu
Outside the entrance, a glass box displays a signed copy of that day’s menu, Michael Mina’s scribbled signature as a proof that the founding chef is still somewhat involved in daily activities–at least in donating his autograph.
The unusually written menu describes dishes by listing its ingredients as bullet points under sometimes-mysterious headers. The format requires some decoding, like a curious word game–think Jeopardy meets crossword puzzle. "Things that are unnecessarily complicated, 4 letters."
Diners can choose from a $105 three-course à la carte menu or a $135 six-course tasting. The former includes about 8 options per course, some with surcharge. For the recession-immune, the restaurant also offers caviar service at up to $195 per order.
In my first visit to Michael Mina, I tried the full tasting menu. It was very good but I recall leaving the restaurant uncomfortably full–if you follow my stories you should know by now I have no small appetite. But when every dish is served in 3 ways, 6 courses become 18 (more on that later). This time, even our waitress had to recognize the arguably excessive menu; “It’s a lot of food”, she said. With the opportune reminder and considering the fact that the options à la carte were significantly more interesting, I decided on 3 courses, or 9, depending on who’s counting.
The meal
Mina’s signature trios feature one main ingredient prepared 3 ways. Each preparation created with different accompaniments and techniques. Presented side by side on custom plates, the small portions are laid out in a progression of flavors and textures that demonstrate the chef’s inventiveness. The concept adds a layer of entertainment and often surprise to the dining experience. In its purest form, it’s a celebration of versatility and creativity. But sometimes it can be a stretch.
While some dishes work beautifully together like a symphonic arrangement, others will be questioned for their unnecessary complexity. Even an orchestra needs to quiet down for a soloist.
The small portions also take some time to go through if you want to fully appreciate each preparation individually–as you should. The downside? By the time you’re done with the first 2, the last one is already below its ideal temperature. You are faced with the difficult choice of rushing through and risking missing the nuances of each preparation or taking your time and eventually biting into something lukewarm.
To start, Lobster Truffle amuse bouche. The first trio includes fried Lobster Ravioli over yuzu sauce, Lobster truffles Salad with celery, and a flavorful consommé with tapioca pearls.
Raw ~ Ceviche, Crudo, Tartare
• Nantucket scallops, yuzu koshu, shiso
• Kampachi, cara cara orange, aji Amarillo
• Tazmanian sea trout, star ruby grapefruit, jalapeño
The Japanese inspired scallops ceviche is by far the star of this dish. Sweet, fresh and delicate. The rest is good, but seem to become less interesting as you progress from one preparation to another.
Pork ~ Terrine, Belly, Short Rib
• Tête de cochon, foie gras, cornichon gelée
• Frisée au lardon, quail egg, sherry mignonette
• Bourguignon, forest mushrooms, potato gnocchi
In contrast to the light raw plate, this first course is rich and luscious. The foie gras is creamy, silky and fatty; its sweetness complementing the chunky fromage the tête underneath it. Topped with a delicate gelée, this preparation is an absolute success.
The pork belly topped with a delicately poached quail egg is also deliciously flavorful.
Finaly, the braised short ribs are actually subtle in flavors but come served with a beautifully clear reduction, perhaps a legacy of chef Chris L'Hommedieu’s tenure at The French Laundry.
Liberty Valley Duck ~ Foie Gras
• Breast, parsnip purée, star anise jus
• Seared foie gras, pink lady apples, laird’s brandy gastrique
• Leg rillettes, apple butter, mixed greens
For the second course, the trio of duck picked my interest on the menu. All preparations were fairly flavorful and artfully presented. Some elements were less successful than others–the pain perdu with the foie lacked textural contrast and the fried rillettes were somewhat plain in flavor. But there was one major flaw, one that I can’t forgive; the seared foie gras had tough veins.
This is like serving fish without removing its bones, but the feeling of finding veins in a luscious foie gras is much more disheartening. Something that would simply not happen in a Thomas Keller restaurant.
Brandt Farm Beef ~ Steakhouse Sides
• Filet mignon, sweet carrots, béarnaise reduction
• Short rib, La Ratte potatoes, natural jus
• Dry aged rib eye, forest mushrooms, sauce bordelaise
In this more traditional option for second course, all meats were tasty and cooked perfectly. Each is served with a vegetable side dish, a highlight being the pearl-shaped buttery carrots.
Chocolate ~ Exotic
• White chocolate panna cotta, passion fruit, almond crumble
• German chocolate, coconut espuma, candied pecans
• Bittersweet chocolate cream, rum bananas, macadamia nut
In this decadent dessert, the progression of flavors is great. Starting with the lighter, more acidic panna cotta and ending on a creamy chocolate and caramelized banana combination.
Mission ~ Bienvenido
• Tres leches cake, guava, cajeta ice cream
This Latin American-inspired dessert is one of the few dishes that is not served in a trio, per se–although the concept of a tres leches is arguably a trio by nature. Unlike the original milk soaked sponge cakes though, this one is not as moist as I expected. Served with a subtle guava purée and a quenelle of cajeta ice cream–the Mexican caramelized milk confection–or dulce the leche.
To finish, mignardises sent by the chef. Lyche pâte de fruit and espresso s’mores.
In short
Despite being technically a hotel restaurant, the lofty mezzanine space gives Michael Mina a private and exclusive atmosphere. One that is peppered with luxury and sometimes pompous service. Its signature trios are fun and inventive but It’s hard not to compare Michael Mina with other restaurants in its class–and price range. The minor flaws found in some dishes could be negligible otherwise but when a goal is set to deliver perfection, the cuisine should be judged accordingly. And in this case, Michael Mina’s food is great, but not quite perfect.
Michael Mina is at 335 Powell St.
Online reservations
Michael Mina, San Francisco
Pesce, San Francisco
For about 4 years or so, I lived a mere 10 minutes walk from Pesce and, almost religiously, went there weekly for lunch. The casual restaurant on Polk Street is a neighborhood pearl. Walk in, sit wherever you like.
The narrow dining room features about a dozen cast iron foot wood tables topped with white butcher paper and flatware rolled on linen napkins. A long zinc counter with leather-padded stools takes up a good portion of the space.
The warm palette of the wood paneling and amber lights is contrasted only by the bright, white hexagon tile floors and colorful blown glass lamps.
Pesce belongs to the same people behind Beretta in the Mission and Antica Trattoria right down the street. The 3 Italian restaurants share in common a welcoming, unfussy atmosphere and the love for simple, good cuisine. For me, it became synonym with comfort food.
But when I moved cross-town, the 10-minute walk turned into a 30-minute drive plus another 15 to find parking. Two years have passed since my last visit. It was time to go back.
The menu 
Pesce is, for the most part, a seafood restaurant. Its Venetian inspired menu has a good selection of “cicchetti”, the Italian version of tapas. But the kitchen won’t leave the sea averse hungry, their meat and pasta dishes are surprisingly good for a restaurant named after the Italian word for fish.
In addition to the printed menu, daily specials are written on a blackboard, they usually include 3 types of oysters in the half shell, whole fish and pastas.
The meal
One of my favorite things to order is the Bellini–the classic Italian cocktail made with prosecco and peach purée. Introduced in the 30s at the now popular Harry’s bar in Venice, it was a favorite among luminaries like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles. Having tried the original at Harry’s, I can say with some authority that Pesce’s is not far behind. Even better when ordered with the restaurant’s OYSTER SHOT, Cucumber, cocktail sauce and horseradish.
Among the daily specials this time of the year, try the LOBSTER SPAGHETTI. Made with a creamy marinara sauce finished with butter, basil and zucchini al dente. Topped with a half lobster on the shell. Rich and delicious.
Another good pasta option, on the lighter side, is the LINGUINE, Dungeness crab, garlic, white wine and chili flakes. Even though this is technically a small plate, it can very well be ordered as a main course.
I’ve been to Pesce countless times and remember always eating well. The food is not outstanding but it’s honest. The following dishes unfortunately were a let down. Or at least, not as good as I remembered them.
RISOTTO AI CALAMARI, Squid ink risotto with calamari. Although the rice is prepared well, flavors could be more pronounced. The calamari was also slightly undercooked.
SARDINE, Grilled sardines with spring mix salad, and pickled vegetables. Pesce’s rendition of the classic Venetian dish “Sarde in saor” is lackluster. The fried sardines are somewhat dry and come with bland accompaniments. In Venice they are simply served with caramelized onions and a nice play of sweetness and acidity. Curiously, the sardines at Pesce’s sister restaurant, Beretta, are much better and closer to the original.
POLPO, Braised octopus, potato, celery and garlic lemon vinaigrette. Not unlike the sardines, there’s a disproportionate amount of accompaniments here. The octopus is also sliced too thin to be fully appreciated. If I didn’t know better, I’d say the cook was trying to make the most out of the only small piece left.
SALSICCIA, Pork sausage with onion, white wine and tomato sauce, with grilled buckwheat polenta. Let’s start with the good news; the tomato sauce is great, especially because its flavor overpowers everything else on the dish. The sausage, on the other hand, is soft and mushy, like those fresh out of the can.
One dish that I didn’t try again but have very fold memories of is the AGNELLO, Merlot braised lamb shank and oregano zucchini. I remember it deliciously tender and flavorful–and that’s how I want it to stay.
To finish, PERE E SALAME, Cinnamon poached pear and nuts-chocolate salami. Despite its somewhat unappealing presentation (not shown are inexplicable piles of ground cinnamon), this is a tasty dessert. The chocolate salami is crunchy and rich while the pear adds a nice freshness to the dish.
Another good dessert is the SGROPPINO, Blended lemon sorbet, prosecco and a touch of vodka. A very refreshing ending for a summer day or a heavier meal.
In short
Comfort food is all about memory. But when it doesn’t live up to it, it can be sadly disappointing. After a 2 years break, what I ate at Pesce wasn’t quite as satisfying as how I remembered it. All in all, the food is still good and honest–some dishes more than others. But when compared to Beretta and Antica, Pesce is in a distant third place. I’d still recommend it for an unpretentious weekend lunch, especially if you have no fond memories to lose.
Pesce is at 2227 Polk St.
Online reservations
Bar Tartine, San Francisco
A little before 11am a small crowd gathers in front of the discreet Mission district facade for the weekend brunch. There are plenty of tables inside and, for a good 40 minutes after the doors open, you won’t need to wait.
The long dining room is flooded with the natural light that comes through the storefront window. It’s like a scene from an Edward Hopper painting. The light fading away into the warmer tone of incandescent bulbs as you advance towards the end of the room.
The vibe is more casual in the morning than at night but the experience of eating the brunch here seems to be consistent with what I remember from dinner. For more on Tartine’s ambiance, read the dinner review.
The crowd is mostly of local habitués, walking in on flip-flops and carrying the Sunday paper. The hip wait staff is attentive and efficient.
The menu
The small brunch menu offers about 10 dishes for main courses, half of them with eggs. There are also some appetizers that seem to have fallen from the dinner menu–gorgonzola stuffed dates and warm marinated olives to name a few. Overall, options sound fresh and appetizing.
The meal
Coffee is from Blue Bottle, served in a French press, brewed with the precision of a digital timer before it’s delivered to your table.
As I wrote on my dinner review, you’ll hardly find better bread in the city. Get in when the doors open at 11 and you’ll get to try them right out of the oven, still warm and steaming as you pull their slices apart. Add some butter and your meal could very well end here. It’s that good.
The same bread is found in the Country bread French toast with quince, huckleberries and vanilla syrup. A moist pain perdú with delicate flavors that ranks fourth on my list (after Canteen’s, Foreign Cinema’s and Zuni’s).
Among the egg dishes, a nice option is the Smoked salmon with avocado, watercress, poached eggs, toasted brioche and hollandaise sauce. I’m not sure the avocado adds anything to the dish and there’s a bit too much hollandaise but other than that, it is a good entrée.
A simpler option is the restaurant’s take on ham and eggs. La Quercia organic cured ham with poached eggs and grilled country bread. The thinly sliced American artisan prosciutto is topped with 2 perfectly poached eggs. Simple and tasty.
And when all seems to be going well, suddenly things go awry. On my second visit I tried 2 sandwiches from the brunch menu. Despite the appetizing descriptions and nice appearance, both were disappointed.
Liberty farm duck confit panini with blood orange marmelade, mizuna and shoestring fries. The shredded duck confit is dry, like water-packed tuna in a can. The marmelade is too sweet overpowing all other flavors. The shoestring fries are more like chips; not bad, but not what I was expecting. Simply put, a complete miss.
Now here’s something that grabed my attention. Truffled grill cheese with king trumpet mushrooms, thyme, red onion and small salad. I love grilled cheese for its play on textures and lusciousness. While the description may leave you salivating, the actual dish falls short. While there’s not nearly enough cheese to bind the mushrooms, there’s way too much raw onions–which have a devastating effect on the already subtle truffle aroma. At first bite, that dreamy memory of a comforting, creamy sandwich quickly goes away as wake up to a dry and boring dish.
In short
Even though this restaurant has a great atmosphere and service, brunch at Bar Tartine is, not unlike dinner, a hit or miss. Some dishes are good, others far from it. To be safe, stay away from the sandwiches. But however you feel after your meal, one thing is for sure; you will remember fondly of how it began, with good coffee, bread and butter.
Bar Tartine is at 561 Valencia Street
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Ad Hoc, Yountville
In my first visit to Ad Hoc I had the brunch. It wasn’t as much by choice as it was by chance, but I left genuinely impressed and curious to see how good dinner would be.
The temporary turned permanent fourth restaurant of Thomas Keller (The French Laundry, Per Se, Bouchon) is his first venture into casual dining. But don’t let the understated ambiance or informal wait staff deceive you. The simplicity here is honest yet carefully orchestrated. This is a place designed to make you feel comfortably at home and, in the true spirit of home cooking, eat well. For more on Ad Hoc’s premise, read the brunch review.
With the popularity of avant-garde experimentations on molecular gastronomy, people sometimes associate complexity with great cuisine. Something that appears simple, therefore, can be misleading. Fernand Point, the legendary chef that revolutionized French cuisine and inspired the young Thomas Keller with his book “Ma Gastronomie”, was quoted saying: “The most difficult dishes to make generally appear to be the simplest”. Ad Hoc is the ultimate proof that simplicity, when done right, can evoke powerful memories and be surprisingly rewarding.
The menu
Like at brunch, the menu for dinner changes every day and, akin to The French Laundry, is conceived the night before. Open the beige manila folder and you’ll find only one option printed in monospaced courier typeface. But again, don’t let simplicity deceive you; the 4-course meal is carefully designed in a thoughtful progression of flavors while keeping the familiarity and accessibility that makes great comfort food.
I’m no vegetarian by any means but couldn’t help but wonder what would the meat-averse palate do when confronted with a steak entrée (most people book their tables in advance without knowing what will be served on the day). Our waitress assured us that the kitchen will accommodate vegetarians. When in need, the chef can always borrow a fish or two from Bouchon down the street. But Ad Hoc is no place for a vegan reunion. Diners here should trust the chef and be open to what’s on the menu. If you are the type that order your cappuccino half-caf, dry, nonfat; this may not be the best place for you. But if you enjoy good food, come with your eyes closed; you’re in for a treat.
The meal
Dishes are served family style, portioned to the number of people at the table. The first course, English Walnut Salad. Red leaf lettuce, lola rosa, watercress, golden crisp apples, celery batons, walnut vinaigrette. A beautifully balanced salad, in flavors and textures.
Next, Spiced Beef Hanger Steak. Wild mushroom gravy, winter vegetable fricassee, house made egg noodles. The perfectly cooked meat is tender, juicy and flavorful with a hint of black pepper and paprika.
Together with the flat noodles and buttery vegetables, this simple dish is delicious. And here again, simplicity is the key.
The cheese course was a nice surprise. Normally, chef de cuisine Dave Cruz serves artisan cheeses with classic accompaniments. But for that night, much like at The French Laundry, cheese was used as the main ingredient for a more inventive dish. Lincolnshire Poacher with pickled cabbage and melted onion tart. The English unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese has a salty, sharp taste that goes very well with the sweetness and flakiness of the tart.
To finish, Citrus Trifle. Lemon sponge cake, vanilla & chocolate anglaise, cara cara oranges, mint syrup. This deconstructed trifle comes with a rich, creamy filling on a light, fluffy sponge cake. Topped with refreshing, sweet cara cara orange slices. A dessert so good it made me ask for more.
So is it true that seconds are permitted at Ad Hoc? The short answer is yes. Contingent on availability, of course, you can repeat one or more courses if your appetite desires. Something that is particularly popular when fried chicken is on the menu.
Speaking of fried chicken, ever since the dish made the restaurant’s menu, it became an overnight sensation. “People book vacations around fried chicken night”–our waitress explained. Thomas Keller’s rendition of the classic all-American favorite is brined overnight with aromatics and lemon before it is dipped in buttermilk, dredged in spiced flour and takes it final dive in peanut oil. The result is said to bring epicureans to their knees. But that’s for another story, or is it?
As I was writing this review and going through my notes for each dish, I couldn’t stop thinking about what I actually didn’t try. Could this story just end here? Like the last episode of Sopranos, suddenly and inexplicably cutting to black. Leaving you (and me) without a clue of how Keller’s deep-fried chicken actually tastes like? That just wouldn’t be fair.
Fried chicken night
Going to Ad Hoc is not like dining around the block. It’s like a short vacation in which you spend more time traveling than actually at the table (it takes me about 3 hours both ways). But it is worth it; so there I was, on the road again.
As I exited my car, an irresistible aroma hypnotized me like the enchanted cry of a mermaid. The framed menu outside confirmed for the passersby, it was fried-chicken night. I was starving.
To start, Classic Wedge Salad. Winter radishes, Hobb’s applewood bacon, blue cheese dressing, mixed pickled vegetables. The crisp salad and pleasantly acidic picked vegetables make for a great, light start. A thin bacon strip and the creamy Point Reyes blue, buttermilk dressing add a subtle richness, almost as a teaser for what’s to come.
And there it was, Buttermilk Fried Chicken. The French Laundry garden Brussels sprouts, braised red cabbage, new potatoes & red eye gravy. Piled high on a small piece of butcher’s paper, proudly displaying few if any droplets of oil. Its outer crust in an even shade of golden brown, crispy and spiced with the nice heat of cayenne. In addition to the aromatic brine, Keller deep-fries the dark and white meats in different oil temperatures yielding a juicy, tender meat that is packed with flavor; no matter what part you try. The generous portion may be enough to take some home–and most people do. Even though the crispiness will be gone the next day, the flavors will only get better.
The side dishes are also worth noting. First, the red wine braised cabbage with caramelized onions and Brussels sprouts is a great complement, conceptually and psychologically. Even better are the potatoes with red-eye gravy–made with the addition of coffee, hence the name.
Next, Two American Cheeses. Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Co-op mona, Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk, cara cara orange jam, black pepper breadsticks. A simple all-American cheese course, served at the right temperature, well balanced with the tart jam and crunchy breadsticks.
For dessert, another national staple. Chocolate Fudge Cupcakes. Chocolate cream cheese frosting. I have to admit I was hoping for a lighter dessert, you know, after a pile of fried-chicken. But I couldn’t resist the last breadcrumb of the moist cakes, topped with a lush frosting and crispy rice puffs Valrhona pearls. A cupcake that would leave Ms. Kara, Ms. Magnolia and Ms. Sprinkles at a loss for words.
In short
After having a memorable dinner at The French Laundry a few weeks ago, there was a short period of time when I wondered where to go next. How does one follow the meal of a lifetime? Here’s one way, you eat at the chef’s house. This is how Ad Hoc feels like; informal, comfortable, homey. But the same simplicity that makes the restaurant so approachable is the result of a thoughtfully conceived and carefully prepared menu. This is Thomas Keller’s home after all. The food here definitely calls for seconds, thirds and so on. Be it fried chicken night*, or any other night.
*Fried chicken nights are every other Monday, next one is 2/9.
Ad Hoc is at 6476 Washington St.
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