Its 2-story triangular building stands proud on a diagonal alley off Market Street. Like a miniature version of NYC’s Flatiron building, with a west coast panache. Covered in wood-framed windows and adorned by a bright yellow awning under which a few sidewalk tables remind of the Parisian cafés on Boulevard Saint-Germain–even with the less glamorous view.
The space is as charming outside as it is inside. The yellow light filtered through the awning shines over a long copper bar and a series of polygonal tables cut like diamonds to fit perfectly in their settings.
In the center of the room, a large open kitchen built around a wood-burning oven that doubles as a fireplace. It’s like eating in a welcoming country home, in the heart of San Francisco.
The good-looking wait staff is efficient and heedful. Our waiter recognized us immediately remembering where we sat a week ago.
The crowd is a mix of young families and old-money San Francisco aristocracy sporting fancy Sunday attires. In the table next to ours, a forty-five thousand dollars Hermés Birkin bag laid carelessly on the floor, crocodile on ceramic tiles. Despite the modern vibe, Zuni is a well-known San Francisco institution, turning 30 this year.
The menu
Fine dining brunch is the product of a precocious breakfast that, deep inside, always wanted to be lunch. Zuni’s menu blurs the line between the two, bringing more sophisticated proteins to the morning fare. It’s not everywhere that you’ll find rabbit or braised chicken wings served with eggs. That said, the descriptions sometimes can be misleading; confirming what’s on each dish is something I’d recommend. The menu also includes fresh oysters and a good selection of main courses made in the wood-fired brick oven or on the grill; like their famous roasted chicken and house-ground burger.
The meal
Zuni serves coffee from La Brea and freshly squeezed orange juice. But judging by the surrounding sound of celery being chomped on, nothing beats the popularity of the Bloody Maries.
To start, Scone with house-made Satsuma plum preserves. Buttery yet light, Zuni’s scones rival the best in town.
Another great sweet dish is the French toast with huckleberry sauce, pistachios and mascarpone. Sauce and toppings vary each week but overall, the French toast here is on par with Foreign Cinema’s, second only to Canteen’s. Good as a main course, even better to share.
Among my favorite entrées, Devil’s Gulch Ranch rabbit salad with mixed chicories, a poached egg, carrots and mustard croûtons. Beyond tender cuts of rabbit loin, this salad comes topped with a juicy and flavorful rabbit sausage. The greens are lightly dressed and the croûtons pleasantly crunchy.
Eggs fried in rapini, house-made fennel sausage and chickpea ragout. Zuni’s fried eggs are also made differently every week, but the star of this dish is always the juicy, flavorful sausage.
On a second visit, a nice twist. Eggs fried in breadcrumbs; house-made fennel sausage and arugula salad. The breadcrumbs added a crunchy texture to the dish and, once again, the sausage was excellent.
Aileron Béarnaise with poached egg, sautéed chard and white beans. In this dish, the brined then braised chicken wings are tasty and very tender, coming easily off the bone. Served with carrots, roasted tomatoes and a flavorful jus.
And if you feel like dessert, try the “Piccola meringata” with Meyer lemon cream and wild huckleberry sauce. Preparations change weekly but the light (figuratively speaking) layering of meringue and whipped cream is definitely worth ordering.
Now here’s something that may outrage the loyal locavores that over the past 30 years learned to love this restaurant. In the spirit of full disclosure, I have to admit; Zuni never made my favorites list. Prior to trying their brunch, I dined there 3 times and honestly, none of them left me craving for a next visit. Wait, before you delete me from your bookmarks, let me get this straight. The ambiance is great and I ate well. But with so much hype and recommendations, eating well never quite a memorable meal. And yes, I tried the famous burger, Caesar salad and roasted chicken. They are all good, no question about it. Good enough to make me like Zuni, but I wouldn’t call it love.
In short
In the morning light, this San Francisco institution offers a welcoming, bright atmosphere, whether you sit inside or outside. The Mediterranean menu has a good selection of seasonal, appetizing dishes. If your taste buds crave for the comfort of simply bacon and eggs, Zuni may not be the right place for you. But if you’re open to a more mature, sophisticated menu, you may feel right at home.
Zuni is at 1658 Market Street
Online reservations
Zuni Cafe, San Francisco
Entremet: Tsukiji market, Tokyo
In the overcrowded streets of Tokyo, where the concept of personal space reminds one of sardines in a can, it’s not the endless shoal of pedestrians that surprise but the enviable politeness of the Japanese. Even when being shoved into a packed subway car by white-gloved guards.
At Tsukiji, the legendary Japanese politeness is constantly put to a test by an even denser crowd. Once you walk into one of its narrow open streets, you’ll inevitably go with the flow. Moving by osmosis, like blood cells in obstructed arteries, squeezing yourself through the crowd.
It’s a procession of locals in their daily pursue of the freshest ingredients mixed with hordes of tourists and their hungry cameras. Here, it’s not the Japanese that take pictures. And much like on cable car sightseeing, photo opportunities won’t wait for you. Act fast or you’ll be pushed past them.
Walking down the alleys of Tsukiji is like being pushed through an exotic food maze that will leave even the most prolific foodies in awe and bewilderment. Stand after stand, an endless selection of sea products; fresh, dried, plastic-wrapped or simply alive. Hundreds of metallic dried fish crates; open aquariums of mollusk, alive and kicking on their shells. But Tsukiji is more than a playground for cooks; it’s a food court for the epicure.
You’ll also find countless food stalls the size of small cupboards, each specializing in one thing and one thing only. Some commanding long lines of patient locals waiting for their turn to order. Be it a roasted tuna head or a bowl of heirloom fish soup–that much like sourdough bread, is made with a base started generations ago. But it’s no surprise that the most popular fare here is plain, raw fish.
It is said that nowhere in Tokyo you’ll find fresher sushi; this is a fish market after all. But not any fish market, the fish market. In fact, the largest in the world. Its famous tuna auctions draw chefs and restaurateurs ready to bid high money for what will soon thereafter make the finest sushi. Recently, another record was broken when a 282-pound bluefin tuna sold for $104,400. Or $370 a pound. The prime fish bought in these auctions are flown to prestigious restaurants around the world and sold at first-class prices.
In Kyoto, at a traditional sushi restaurant open for over 40 years and comprised of a single wood counter that fits about 10 diners, I had the most amazing sashimi in my whole life. Fresh from Tsukiji, two orders of Bluefin Toro (the fatty part of the tuna) added $100 to my bill. But it was worth it. The six 1 square inch cubes were marbled with thin layers of fat yielding a texture no description would do it justice. Its brisk, fresh flavor exploding in your mouth as its fat melts away. Skillfully sliced by the oldest sushiman and closely watched as you add a pinch of wasabi and dip it lightly in its special soy sauce. All with your hands, no chopsticks–you don’t want to hurt this beautiful fish or the chef’s feelings. Sashimi at Nontaro makes you realize that perhaps you never had sashimi before. But I digress.
At Tsukiji, sushi is more fun than fuss. The nigirizushi restaurants are packed with lines out the door; some more than others–always a telling sign. Inside, the humble rooms are packed with locals. Seat at the counter and, unless you look and speak Japanese, you’ll promptly be handed a laminated English menu. Usually accompanied by an amusing albeit somewhat sarcastic laughter from behind the counter. A sound that is often echoed by the local patrons. You don’t need to speak Japanese to understand that they are talking about you. In a “Let’s see how they do” type of way. The Japanese men and women wait amused to see the western’s men attempt at ordering. At every request, usually assisted by a finger pointing on the laminated menu, the fish name is repeated out loud by the chef and, after a beat, followed by another long, sarcastic-sounding commentary. A not so polite communal laughter follows suit. Here’s the thing, you can’t take it personally. Think of it as tradition. Use your hands, dip the fish side down and enjoy your sushi. But don’t expect perfectly marbled, melt-in-your-mouth toro. Even though the fish is indeed fresh; here, it’s a volume game. In some restaurants the fish even is pre-cut and piled behind the counter in neatly arranged slices. You will eat well and for a lot less than my toro, but the overall experience will be more memorable than the actual meal. And that’s okay because at the very least, you’ll have a good story to tell.
Foreign Cinema, San Francisco
More than a restaurant, Foreign Cinema is a San Francisco landmark. In the heard of the Mission district, amidst cheap taquerias, dollar stores and out-of-business facades, a somewhat discreet door hides an impressive multiplex of lofty rooms that together make one of the most remarkable spaces in the city. Ten years after this door first opened, in the peak of the dotcom era, the address doesn’t seem to have lost its relevancy and popularity. Something impressive in a city where restaurants come and go like Internet startups.
The main space is bookended by a large open kitchen and a bar. The room also features a big wood-burning fireplace. Very high ceilings with bulb clusters add a faint yellow light to the naturally bright space, thanks to 4 large skylights and windows.
Steel rebar protrude through the concrete walls giving the space a modern, industrial feel contrasted by rustic hardwood floors and arts & crafts furniture.
An ample courtyard fits 3 long rows of tables, neatly aligned underneath sometimes too warm heat lamps. Above them, a plastic tent roof diffuses the morning Sun and offers shelter for an eventual drizzle. It’s here that, starting at dusk, vintage movies are projected against a large concrete wall. In my last dinner at Foreign Cinema, the 1971 classic “Fiddler on the roof” was screened on the background as I starred at my delicious pork chops. Even though few people actually watch the movies, the concept makes it for one of the most original restaurants in San Francisco. Absolutely worth the visit, even for brunch when there are no matinees.
A third space is the more recent takeover of the next-door art gallery where a few tables are surrounded by abstract art. In my last visit, artist Charles Arnoldi’s large acrylic paintings were in display. Despite the compelling artwork, the space feels cold and isolated from the lively ambiance found in the other 2 dining rooms.
In addition to the 3 main rooms, Foreign Cinema also features a mezzanine, a director’s table in the projection room and a bar/lounge.
Even fitting nearly 200 people, the popularity of the restaurant calls for advance reservations–which will guarantee you a table in your room of choice. Once seated, relax and enjoy the scenery. Service can be spotty at times; it may be rushed and indifferent but, for the most part, it is pretty efficient.
The menu
The restaurant is well known for its Californian/Mediterranean dinner fare but its brunch menu is also very appetizing. In addition to a good variety of organic egg dishes, other lunch-like options include croque monsieur and a popular roasted chicken. To start, “Weekend picnic” items include house made “Pop Tarts” and about 10 salads and antipasto. The restaurant is also one of the very few in the city to offer 10 types of fresh oysters for brunch.
The meal 
Complimentary still and sparkling water is served in glass bottles. Coffee is from Caffé Roma, the artisan roaster in North Beach; brewed on the strong side. Juices include house made lemonade and sweet, fresh squeezed OJ.
To start, Orange marmelade “Pop Tarts”, a good choice for the table to share. About the size of a paperback, the flat pastry is flaky and buttery. Fillings change every week and can include apple, figs and kumquats.
Smoked salmon, egg crostini, organic walnut bread, citrusy watercress salad. A tasty dish of chopped eggs on toasted bread served with smooth, tender smoked salmon. There’s only one catch; this dish is small. Too small for a main course; unless of course you had a couple of the pop tarts.
Poached eggs: Moroccan duck breast, endive, frisee, croutons, tapenade, shallot-herb vinaigrette. A very tasty dish with tender, flavorful duck and perfectly cooked eggs. It could probably use a little less sauce but that’s my only criticism.
Dungeness crab frittata: potatoes, tomato vinaigrette, red mustards, Manchego. Another tasty option, albeit not as complex in flavors as the previous two.
Slow-cooked scrambled eggs, black truffle, buttery breadcrumbs, parsley, arugula, Parmesan. I’m usually skeptical when it comes to truffles appearing on most menus as that usually means cheap truffle essence oils drizzled over the food. I wasn’t expecting table shaved fungus on my scrambled eggs but was pleasantly surprised with what was served. The moist eggs are infused with a pungent aroma from finely minced black truffles, nicely balanced with the its other ingredients.
Baguette French toast: huckleberry sauce, orange butter & maple syrup. Second only to Canteen’s, this custard-soaked pain perdú is very good.
On the side, Slow-cooked brown sugar organic smoked bacon and Foreign Cinema’s chicken sausage. Both are great, while the sweetness of the former may surprise those hoping a salty pork accompaniment, the latter is flavorful and juicy.
For dessert, in case you’re left hungry after the small crostini, try the Cardamon Cake. Despite looking dry, the fluffy, aromatic cake is nicely complemented by mascarpone and caramel sauce.
But the biggest surprise came in a secret dish that stormed past our table in the hands of a rushed waitress. “What is this?”–we asked stopping her on her tracks. With a slight irritated undertone she responded: “Beignets”.
Here’s something you should know about me; I love beignets. But despite reading the menu carefully, I don’t remember seeing them there. “They are not on the menu”–our waitress admitted with some hesitation. Realizing she had not much of a choice–while we starred at her with a mix of bewilderment and salivation, she offered to bring us some. As a beignet enthusiast I can say with authority that Foreign Cinema’s are some of the best I ever had. Delightfully crispy and creamy. But is it possible that the best thing on the menu is not actually on the menu? Apparently it is. The restaurant prepares the deep fried treats ad hoc and send them to some lucky tables.
So I hereto would like to start a menu petition, for equal rights on deep-fried delicacies. If you go to Foreign Cinema for brunch, order the beignets. Simply pretend they are in the menu.
In short
With about 5000sq feet of beautiful industrial-chic space, this Mission district restaurant is a rare example of originality in a city notorious for somewhat bland interior designs. When it comes to the food, the brunch fare at Foreign Cinema is as good as its popular dinner. A very appetizing selection of inventive dishes, carefully conceived and prepared. I may even say it’s the best brunch in San Francisco. That, if you can get a beignet.
Foreign Cinema is at 2534 Mission St.
Online reservations
Pizzeria Delfina, San Francisco
The popular Italian restaurant and the pizzeria have no connection between their dining rooms. But outside, the 2 waiting crowds meld into one. Unlike at the restaurant, no reservations are taken at the pizzeria, people are seated in the order they arrive. Write your name on the blackboard and wait. It will be worth your while.
The small dining room is packed with 6 wood tables, Eames Eiffel chairs and piles of wine boxes on the floors. Every nook and cranny is taken, no corner is left unused. Yellow pizza cartons pile high contrasting with a mural painting depicting the San Francisco skyline in Starry Night swirls. The lively atmosphere is fueled by the likes of Black Sabbath and Ramones; a loud soundtrack that some can’t help but sing along. In one of my visits, a young man waiting for a table sported an air guitar and sang enthusiastically at every chorus: “Hey! Ho! Let’s go”.
Service is, like at Delfina, friendly and efficient. There are plenty of servers and they manage to move swiftly in the crowded space. And even though the waitlist is usually long, tables move quickly, without ever being rushed.
Including the dining counter, only 24 people can sit inside while 12 or so brave the elements under beaming heating lamps. During warmer months, of course, the street tables are much more appealing.
A steady stream of take-outers come in and out, often balancing a tall pile of pizza boxes on their arms. Like Gialina, Delfina is first and foremost a neighborhood restaurant.
The menu
The seasonal menu is also written on a large blackboard. It includes 10 thin crust pizzas, 2 of which are daily specials. In addition to the pies; soup, salad and a good selection of appetizers will entice your palate. Last but not least, Delfina has the best desserts you’ll find in a pizzeria (more on that later).
The meal
I visited Pizzeria Delfina 4 times before writing this review. On my first dinner, I just ordered different antipasti (collards, mozzarella, sardines). On the next 3, appetizers, pies and desserts were tasted. Everything I tried was tasty and well prepared in a simple, unfussy way. There’s no sophistication in the preparation or presentation but that’s not the point. Not here.
One of my favorite appetizers is the Fresh-stretched Mozzarella. The hand-stretched cheese that was once a popular item on the menu of the restaurant next-door is mild and indeed, extremely fresh. Served with arugula and a generous drizzle of olive oil.
If you seat at the counter, you’ll be able to see them being made.
Daily specials include 2 types of fritti. One of these deep-fried treats is usually a vegetable, like Broccoli di ciccio, which is fantastic. A lighter version of the Japanese tempura, crispier and topped with shaved Parmesan.
Another fritti I like is the Panzarotti, which are like mini calzones stuffed with salami and cheese, then deep-fried. Served with a light marinara sauce.
For the pies; dried oregano sprigs, Parmesan and red pepper flakes to taste.
Some of Delfina’s pizzas are made with panna instead of mozzarella. The Italian cream is thicker than the American whipping cream and makes a great base for the pies. It keeps them moist and, since it has a mild taste, highlights beautifully their main ingredients.
One great example is the “Gricia” Purplette onions, guanciale, panna, chili. This pizza, a special on my second visit, combines the saltiness of the cured pork jowl with the sweet thinly sliced onions. The panna gives it a luscious creaminess that goes nicely with the thin, crunchy crust.
Another good choice is the Prosciuto pizza. Also made with panna and fresh arugula; which gives it a nice, peppery bite.
If you are feeling more traditional, the Salsiccia is a good call. Housemade fennel sausage, tomato, bell peppers, onions and mozzarella.
Delfina’s pizzas are on par with Gialina’s and Beretta’s. Gialina still offers the most inventive toppings and an irresistible olive-oil-brushed outer crust. And while Beretta’s incredibly generous burrata add-on is hard to beat, the panna pies at Delfina are definitely on my favorites list. But the small pizzeria offers one thing that is far ahead of its competition; sweets.
The Baba Rum, a richer take on the classic French dessert, is simply to die for. A spongy cake baked with currants and lightly soaked in rum is filled with a luscious custard and served with strawberry coulis. Without a doubt, the best Baba in the city.
Another great option is the Bellwether Ricotta Cannoli. The crispy, thin cannoli is filled with a creamy, dense ricotta that is hard to resist scooping the plate for the last dollop. A good friend of mine from NY always complained to me that you can’t find a good cannoli in San Francisco. Well, Marita, this one is for you.
In short
Craig Stoll, co-owner of Delfina and James Beard Award winner for best chef in 2008, is not Italian. But he is behind one of San Francisco’s best Italian fares, including a great Neapolitan pizza. The pizzeria next to his popular Italian restaurant has a friendly, lively atmosphere and a rock-and-roll vibe that will occasionally make the bohemian crowd draw their air guitars. The food is definitely worth the wait, and come to think of it, the wait itself can be pretty entertaining. Hey! Ho! Let’s go.
Pizzeria Delfina is at 3611 18th Street
No reservations are taken, for takeout call 415-437-6800
Raviolo di ricotta at 
