Craft, New York

On a dark winter night, the sight at 19th and Park is irresistibly arresting. Behind tall storefront windows, a warm dining room amber in color and lively in ambiance contrasts with the freezing weather outside. As if screaming an invitation to walk in.



On one side of the room, a 2 story wine cellar cradles each bottle on individual metal mesh hammocks behind glass doors.



On the other, a curved wall of leather panels resembles the scales of a copper fish. Above solid wood tables and chairs, filament bulbs hang in formation from the high ceilings. On the very end of the room, 3 large blue canvasses allude to white fireworks on the ocean horizon. All together, they create a welcoming atmosphere combining modern industrial design with homey elements. Light rock plays on the background as about 80 diners pack tightly in the dining room.

Tom Colicchio opened Craft in 2002 capitalizing on the success of his previous restaurant; Gramercy Tavern. The new venture quickly earned praise from the press and Colicchio went from chef to celebrity restaurateur. Nowadays, Craft’s franchise sprawls over 6 states and includes a few variations on the original brand; craftbar, craftsteak and ‘whichcraft. As Colicchio’s stove time ebbs away, his public persona flows–you may not see him in the kitchen but won’t miss him as the head judge on Bravo’s Top Chef.

The menu



Craft’s cuisine can be described as fine dining family style. The restaurant’s American fare is presented at the table on serving plates and bowls for diners to help themselves. Portions vary in size but sharing is strongly recommended. At first glance, the menu is somewhat confusing and even discouraging. There are too many choices and the logic on the categorization is hard to grasp. Dishes are only described by their main ingredient, listed under the cooking method. Like “Roasted: Dourade”. Once explained by the somewhat snobby wait staff, things become clearer–one first course, one main and one side per person are suggested. A tasting menu is also available.

The meal

Despite the long menu (usually a personal red flag), everything I tried was of great quality and very well prepared. Most dishes have bold flavors and intense aromatics.



Two types of bread are served on a wood basket, with butter.



An amuse bouche follows suit. Butternut squash soup with walnut. Spicy and tasty.



From the raw bar, Kumamoto oysters on a half shelf, served with mignonette.



Among the first courses, fresh Hamachi sashimi; served with pink peppercorn and a nice pear purée cooked with duck fat, shallots and vinegar.



But the best dish to start is the Octopus. Found under the “Cured/Marinated” category on the menu, it has a pleasantly meaty texture and smoky flavor. Roasted and served with harissa cream, roasted peppers and carrot purée; topped with picked jalapeños and shallots. Definitely worth ordering.



Under “Charcuterie”, the Foie gras terrine is creamy and well prepared. Served with pumpkin marmalade, aged sherry vinegar and toasted pumpkin seeds.



For main course, the star of the menu is the Roasted Bluefoot Chicken; the homegrown version of France’s renowned Poulet de Bresse. While the original birds remain protected by the French government and illegal for export, a small Canadian poultry breeder managed to recreate it in America. Think of Blue Foot as the Bellota or Kobe beef of chickens. Each bird is raised naturally and pampered with a diet of whole grains and fresh milk. The result is a firm, moist flesh that challenges the otherwise bland chicken flavor (and a price that is in average 10 times higher than its less aristocratic counterpart). At Craft, the $64 bird is presented at the table still sporting its steel blue feet before it’s taken back to be carved. The succulent meat has a unique, almost gamy flavor. For someone that only orders chicken as a last resort (that would be me), this is a can’t miss opportunity.



Also very good is the Braised Beef Short Rib. The beautifully marbled cut melts in your mouth. It’s served in a small cast iron casserole with fresh thyme sprigs.



From the ocean, try the Dayboat Monkfish. A flattering presentation for what could very well be one of the ugliest sea creatures (google it if you can stomach). Craft’s speck-wrapped preparation enhances the fish’s flavor while keeping it moist and tender. Served with parsnip purée, red wine fish sauce and black trumped mushrooms.



Side dishes are also very appetizing. A highlight is the Hen of the woods, roasted and served with minced chives. The curiously looking wild mushroom resembles a coral reef and grows on the base of oak trees to up to 30lbs in weight.



Also worth ordering are the Roasted Turnips. They make a great accompaniment for the more fatty meats on the menu.



Additional sides include Pumpkin risotto with crème fraîche, a myriad of potato preparations, mushrooms and other roasted vegetables.



The dessert menu is equally confusing. You can pick from “classic combinations” or “make your own” selecting from different pastries, fruit, ice cream and sorbets. One of the most curious options is the Fennel Sorbet. Its fresh, bright flavor is a nice surprise.



Also good are the Pumpkin Fritters with Maple Cream & Cranberry Sorbet. Tossed with sugar and cinnamon, they are another fine example of upscale doughnuts; fragrant and fluffy.

In short

Craft’s cuisine features an extensive selection of hearty dishes that celebrate their main ingredients in rustic presentations. The type of restaurant you will enjoy more going with a few friends, so you can try different things. With an eclectic menu in which everything I tried was flavorful and well prepared, I never thought I’d say this but, if you only order one thing, order the chicken.

Craft is at 43 E. 19th St.
Online reservations

Entremet: Spice girl

Most grocery stores carry a large selection of pre-packed condiments and spices. But freshness and quality can only be tasted once you open the sealed glass jars; in other words, after you buy the product. Stores like Whole Foods offer some condiments in bulk, but usually just the most popular.

In Europe, you can still find authentic spice shops filled with popular and hard-to-find ingredients. Entering one of these stores is like going back in time and traveling the world through an infinite blend of aromas; jar after jar.

In the heart of Greenwich Village you can find one of these stores. Aphrodisia opened its doors on April fools, 1969 and, in a rare example of independence, stayed afloat and relevant until this day. Thanks to Joanne Pelletiere who since founding the store remained actively managing it–constantly looking for the best purveyors and establishing one-to-one relationships with her customers.



The homey atmosphere is genuine. No faux antique labels or fussy interior design. Everything is real. In between the jars, old culinary books and a myriad of curious objects accumulated over 40 years.

Joanne describes her business as “A complete experience in herbs and oils that encompasses all types of uses, from culinary to fragrance.” She personally selects the herbs that fill the store’s countless glass jars. “Bee pollen comes from Colorado because it’s the best tasting I ever tried” –she says, explaining the reason for not simply buying locally. Specialty teas come fresh from Chinese masters she has established enduring relationships with. Seasonal offerings like chili peppers are sold only when in season. It’s all about freshness.

There’s no shortage of spices, herbs and essential oils to choose from. Exotic spices like galangal and asafoetida can be found next to the more common rosemary and thyme. But over 20 types of chili and several varieties of cinnamon may put indecisive shoppers on a tough spot. If that’s your case, don’t be afraid to ask.



Despite selling to visitors from all around the world, Aphrodisia is, in many ways, a neighborhood store. While locals chitchatted outside on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a customer walked in to buy tea. After a brief conversation about his preferences, Joanne perused the wall-to-wall shelves that surround the long room adding a handful of herbs to a small bag. The customer was given a one of a kind tea blend, created just for him. Pelletiere recognizes the importance of taking care of her customers with a great deal of attention and personal service.

As I was leaving the store, I noticed 2 cats sunbathing on the warm rays that came through the front window. “They are the most important things in this store”–she said as the well-fed cats lay there in clear appreciation of her attentive customer service.



Aphrodisia is at 264 Bleecker St, New York.

Canteen, San Francisco

After becoming a fan of Canteen’s weekend brunch, it was time to try dinner at the small TenderNob eatery.

The night scene is not that different than what you see in the mornings. A casual, warm atmosphere that is anything but fussy. Think classic American diner meets cabinet of curiosities. For more on that, read the brunch review.



Dinner is served in only 3 seatings; 6:00, 7:30 and 9:15pm. Reservations are usually required and it is asked that you arrive on time. The reason is simple; with a small kitchen and only one cook in addition to the chef, service needs to run in perfect synchronicity. Course after course, each dish is prepared and served to every diner, roughly at the same time. After dessert, check and done. The 4 tables and 7 counter seats empty and the next seating begins.

The staff operates like a well-oiled machine. Efficient and straight to the point; no pomp and circumstance.

The menu



Every week, chef Dennis Leary serves a different 3-course menu–the week number is noted on the top of the page. You can choose from 4 appetizers, 4 entrées and 2 desserts. Selections are appetizing and inventive, vegetarian options are usually available. I had reservations for October 31, Halloween night. Instead of à la carte, a 5-course prix fixe menu was served.

The meal



To start, an amuse bouche of Scallops ceviche served on the half shell. Fresh but somewhat plain.



House-baked bread comes next. Directly from the oven to the table, warm and fragrant. Served with butter.



First course, Bigeye tuna with raw vegetables, black olive butter. The star of this dish isn’t the fresh tuna or the lightly dressed raw vegetables like cauliflower and mushrooms. They are good, but it’s the black olive butter that I will remember fondly. Panko-battered and fried, the crispy croquette hides a warm, buttery filling.



Second, Chestnut soup with chanterelles. Simple and flavorful, the best course in the meal. The sweetness of the chestnuts goes perfectly together with the meaty, peppery chanterelles.



Third, Smoked pheasant terrine with cranberry sauce. The terrine has a nice texture, not too dry but not overly gelatinous. Its flavor is on the milder side; the gamy pheasant taste doesn’t really come through. In contrast, the tart cranberry sauce ends up being overpowering.



Forth, Roast sirloin of beef with cippolini onions, butterball potato. I eat red meat medium rare; to me, that’s when the flavor reaches its peak. Cooked beyond that, flavors fade away and texture gives in. Undercooking it does less harm but requires a much tender cut of meat. In this dish, the beef is served rare but unfortunately, the cut was somewhat tough and bland in taste. There was also an exaggerated amount of jus on the plate.



Fifth, Pear and walnut tart with caramel sauce. Despite having good flavors, this dessert is disappointingly dry. To me, a simple scoop of house-made whipped cream or mascarpone would have saved it.

In short

Canteen is a great restaurant for eating well in a casual atmosphere. The chef’s cuisine is fresh and inventive. Some dishes are better than others so don’t expect perfection, as this is not what the restaurant is all about. And that’s perfectly fine. Although I may be back for another try at dinner, brunch is still where I think Canteen is at its best.



Canteen is at 817 Sutter St.
Reservations by phone 415-928-8870

Entremet: Mmmm… Upscale doughnuts.

Long gone are the ubiquitous lines that made Krispy Kreme nationally famous in the early 2000s. The popularity of the once coveted doughnut chain fell as fast as it rose; much like the dotcom era that fueled its success. Blame it on the carbs diets or simply on the end of a passing trend. Either way, lining up for hours to get the sugar coated snack or buying company stock when it was at its peak, turned out to be not such a sweet idea. The stock fell sharply after the hype and, when you think about it, the doughnuts weren’t something to die for after all. They were just hard to get. And, as quickly as we fell for them, we moved on to something else.

Last year will be remembered as the cupcakes’ came back. Magnolia Bakery in NY, Sprinkle’s in LA and Kara’s in San Francisco turned an American standard into coveted high-end treats. Often displayed like jewelry, neatly arranged behind a glass box. The gourmetization of food is nothing we haven’t seen before; chocolate, coffee and frozen yogurt come to mind. But much like fashion often recycles old trends, food can always come back in style. It’s time for a doughnut makeover.

Fine dining doughnuts have been appearing more prominently on restaurant menus. Maverick and Universal Cafe serve them for brunch. Spruce and Town proudly offer them as desserts, albeit under its French pseudonym, beignets. But the fried pastry is claiming its independence.



Dynamo Doughnut is a great example. The small Mission coffee stand serves delicious house-made deep-fried goodies. Their flavors are inventive and, to the less adventurous, maybe even daring. Think Bacon-Apple with Maple Glaze and Chipotle-Cinamon Spiced Chocolate. Like a carefully created restaurant dessert, these doughnuts are to die for.



Dee’s Mini is another favorite. The Marin-based bakery produces miniature fresh hand-dipped organic doughnuts. On its website, the company defines its product as a “Healthy snack”–which when you think about deep-fried dough, it’s pretty much an oxymoron. So I talked to Diana Firmage, who carries the official corporate title of “Doughnut Queen”.

After ending a retail marketing career to embrace baking for the epicurean masses, Diana spent 6 months on daily doughnut R&D. Her kids, the company’s taste testers, didn’t complain. As most doughnuts out there are made from a pre-made mixes, Dee’s make theirs from scratch using local ingredients. Diana says: “To do an organic doughnut, we had to create our own blend. Our ingredients did not follow any of the rules because most doughnuts don't use whole-wheat flour. Most have binders, stabilizers, preservatives, flavorings, etc. Our blend is clean and wholesome.” The result is something hard to resist. Flavors include Meyer lemon glaze, Maple crunch and, coming this holiday season, Choco candy cane. The cake-like dough produces a denser doughnut, which works really well for its miniature size. The size itself is a smart marketing decision as, beyond being more fun to eat, they leave that feeling of somehow being not as bad for you. That of course doesn’t apply if, like me, you eat half a dozen of them.

But to understand what’s behind a good doughnut, I talked to Lauren Shimek, a food scientist in the Bay Area. Having worked on doughnuts for a year and a half, she talks about them with great enthusiasm. If you followed the last Bay to Breakers, you probably saw her dressed up as a giant donut; her costume made the cover of the Chronicle.

Lauren explains that there are 2 general types of donuts: yeast raised (think Krispy Kreme) and cake or chemically leavened (like Dee’s). She prefers the cake type for its denser crumb and goes on to say “I think the key to a great donut is the freshness. The best donuts are right from the fryer- not dripping any oil but still slightly warm.” On the topic of wholesome, her opinion is clear: “There is nothing healthy about a fried donut. It is an indulgence and there is a special place for donuts but I think it is really a stretch to say it is a healthy snack.” But when parading the streets on San Francisco as a donut helself, she realized how universally loved they are, “From excited kids to munchie, drunk people.”

As cupcakes go démodé (Karl Lagerfeld once said “Fashion is ephemeral and unfair”); upscale doughnuts seem to be here to stay–at least until something else takes its place. Until then, enjoy the organic sugar high. And remember, if nothing else, doughnuts are healthy for the mind.



Dynamo doughnuts is at 2760 24th St
Dee's mini doughnuts can be found in Marin and San Francisco, here.

Universal Cafe, San Francisco

Every weekend morning, dozens of local and visiting patrons stand outside the popular Universal Cafe. The wait is usually long but people don’t seem to mind. Instead, they gather in small groups on the quiet street in between Mission and Potrero Hill. Like a morning happy hour.

Some stand with Pomegranate Bellinis and Sake Bloody Maries; some claim their space on the curb. Whatever your drink of choice may be, the restaurant is very accommodating in serving those waiting outside.



The small dining room features a line up of white marble tables and a few seats at the bar.



The décor contrasts the industrial, modern aluminum and light wood furniture with a quaint floor to ceiling white wainscoting. The atmosphere is lively and fun. The only drawback is the unfortunate strobe light effect produced by the ceiling fan inattentively installed under a skylight.



Mix and match vintage silverware and paper napkins continue the play on contrasts. And unlike some patrons that sport the just-got-out-of-bed look, the wait staff is efficient and always in good spirit.



A few minutes after we sat at our table, my not so subtle camera caught the attention of the couple to my right. The man (we’ll call him Joe, to preserve his anonymity) asked if I was a food critic. “Aren’t we all?” I thought to myself. I tried to dodge the question with a smile but he was determined to knowing if I’d be writing about his favorite San Francisco brunch spot. He seemed enthusiastic about it, even offering his food to be photographed.

The menu

Universal Cafe’s menu is described as “Richly Organic”. Brunch selections are very appetizing and change every weekend. They range from classic breakfast fare like French toast and scrambled eggs to more filling options like a Moroccan-marinated leg of lamb. During weekdays, the restaurant opens for lunch and dinner, except Mondays when it is closed.

The meal



Drip coffee is brewed from Equator Coffees beans, the same brand used by Thomas Keller at The French Laundry. Equator is a local artisan roaster focused on quality and sustainability.



In addition to orange juice, house-made ginger lemonade and blended to order fresh fruit shakes are also available.



The kitchen is always busy putting out order after order of doughnuts–what seems to be one of the most popular items on the menu.



Doughnut preparations vary every week. But they are guaranteed to be served warm, from the deep fryer to the table. Pictured is Fresh huckleberry doughnuts with meyer lemon curd cream. I also tried Pumpkin doughnuts with brandied fruit mascarpone. Both were delicious, crunchy outside, fluffy inside. The best morning sweet north of Prune’s merveilles.



A great dish is the Poached eggs and buttermilk biscuits with maple sugared-sausage gravy, heirloom peppers and rucola. Tasty and rich, it combines complementing flavors and textures.



Also good is the Soft scrambled eggs with cherry tomatoes, arugula pesto and mozzarella; mixed greens and toast. The eggs are prepared moist and the pesto that tops it brings a nice flavor surprise. The green salad though would benefit from a more prominent dressing.



For a hearty option, try the Fried eggs & willis farm country-style pork chop braised in peperonata, goat cheese fritters, cilantro sauce. The braised pork is flavorful and fork tender. The fritters, like the doughnuts, are crunchy and fluffy.

By the end of our meal, Joe approached me with some hesitation and said “Can I ask you a favor?” He then continued, “Don’t give it a good review. We don’t want the waiting time to get any longer” He finished the sentence with a smile, as if joking, but not really.

In short

The standing crowd outside may intimidate at first sight but the brunch at Universal Cafe is well worth the wait. Just put your name on the list and start mingling outside (or, if you can stomach it, get there before 9:30am when the locals are still asleep). For those who appreciate inventive brunch menus and carefully prepared dishes, this will most likely become a favorite. To me, it’s definitely one of the best brunches in San Francisco. Sorry, Joe.



Universal Cafe is at 2814 19th street
For dinner reservations only, call 415-821-4608

Luce, San Francisco

Dining at a hotel restaurant is like ordering room service without the benefit of eating while lying in bed. The setting is usually nondescript and the food, unless you’re starving after a long flight, is anything but delightful. Okay, there are a few exceptions; Relais & Châteaux hotels, for example, are known for their fine dining fare. But the Intercontinental San Francisco never crossed my mind as a destination for great food.

The new building from the world’s largest hotel group in SoMa is your typical corporate monolith, no special charm or personality. Getting to its restaurant requires going through the ample lobby, usually filled with trade show attendees proudly displaying their glossy conference badges. Something unfortunate as it deserved a separate entrance (which actually exists but is not in use).



At Luce (pronounced loo-chay, the Italian word for light), the interior design makes an effort to create an ambiance distinct from the hotel it resides. Floor to ceiling windows are covered with sheer metallic gold curtains that blur the outside view and try to create a more intimate atmosphere.



Dark wood is used to bring warmth while modern blown glass lamps hang from the high ceilings. Tables are set with white linen and fresh flowers. All dishes are served on beautiful white plates that frame the food artfully. The centerpiece of the design is a glass wall of wine bottles that divides the kitchen from the spacious dining room. It’s from behind this backlit wall that comes Luce’s brilliance. Also known as chef Dominique Crenn.

The menu

Raised in France, Crenn worked in Indonesia and Southern California cooking for luminaries at a private club before she returned to San Francisco–the birthplace of her formal cooking career. At Luce, she created an inventive menu that brings together seasonal local farm ingredients with Northern Italian influences. The restaurant serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Diners will find an appetizing selection of a-la-carte dishes as well as 6 and 8-course tasting menus. On Sundays, a 4-course Supper menu entitled “Farm to the table” is also available. That’s what I had (and some other things).

The meal

Crenn, recently awarded “Chef of the year” by Esquire magazine, has a keen talent for combining flavors and designing beautiful presentations. Her food is delicate yet flavorful, perfectly prepared in every way. She combines classic French technique with modern molecular gastronomy in perfect harmony and purpose; like few people can. During service, you’ll see her come out of the kitchen a few times as she makes sure to stop at every table to make sure everything is fine.



Dinner begins with individually baked bread rolls. Crunchy and warm, served with soft butter.



For the first course of the Sunday Supper menu, Riverdog Root Vegetable Salad. Artfully presented, served on a black granite sheet. Heirloom carrots, turnips and chanterelles perfectly cooked, accompanied by garlic purée, vegetable foam and black olives powder. A delicate dish with beautifully balanced flavors.



Second, Braised Matsutake and Lobster Mushrooms Wild California Harvest. The meaty mushrooms are tasty and perfectly cooked; accompanied by a sweet chestnut purée.



From the appetizers menu, “Ocean and Land” Surf and Turf Carpaccio, Spicy Italian Black Olive Ice Cream. One of the most inventive items on the menu; raw rib eye, Artic char, scallops and smoked sturgeon are rolled together and thinly sliced.



The combination is surprisingly good, even better with the black olives ice cream.



Third, Niman Ranch Braised Short Ribs with Gigante Beans. Braised short ribs is one of my favorite dishes and Crenn’s is second to none. The beautifully marbled meat is buttery and flavorful, the kind that melts in your mouth. The beans, tender and tasty.



From the entrées menu, Black Ink Trofiette “Carbonara” Baby Calamari, Poached Egg, Pancetta and Parmesan. An original twist on the classic Italian dish. Instead of the raw yolk sauce, a whole poached egg tops the squid ink pasta. Deliciously flavorful.



The Supper menu ends with a Selection of Artisan Cheeses and its Condiments. Three soft cheeses are served with raisins, raisin bread and honey.



From the dessert menu, Greek Yogurt “Gnocchi” Rose Petals Broth and guava “Bubbles”. The bright-red rose broth is poured at the table from a glass test tube. Together with the guava foam, they bring a rich aroma and delicate flavors that complement the creamy yogurt.

In short

Dominique Crenn’s cuisine is, simply put, delightful. She demonstrates inventiveness and perfectionism in her original creations and impeccable attention to details. Luce is nice surprise that is definitely worth the visit, even if that means tackling the eventual hordes of corporate tourists as you walk through the hotel lobby. Here’s a tip; walk fast, ignore what’s around. There’s light at the end of the tunnel.



Luce is at 888 Howard Street
Online reservations