My first time at Farallon was in 2002, right when I moved to the city. I was new to the Bay Area but, like most tourists, had heard of the famous San Francisco seafood restaurant. Even though I remember having a good time, it took me 7 years to go back. The reason? Location, location, location. The more time you spend in a city, the less time you spend in its most obvious places–the touristic places. San Francisco has so many great dining options that joining the out-of-towners in Union Square hardly comes as a first choice.
To the restaurateurs credit, in a city that suffers from boring ambiances, they clearly recognized the importance of interior design and how it can affect your dining experience. Farallon is an “underwater fantasy”, as they describe it. The unique light fixtures tell it all. Jellyfish glass chandeliers appear to float in space surrounded by scattered recessed spotlights that create a surreal submarine constellation. Once you get over the initial theme park feeling, you start to notice the beautiful 1924 building interior and Pat Kuleto’s carefully crafted design. All in all, you can’t argue that the ambiance is original (okay, it takes some time but it will grow on you).
The atmosphere is intimate, despite the fairly large dining room. As you enter the long, narrow space, a raw bar and a few tables can be found. Keep going towards the back and you’ll come across an ample arched dining room with view to the open kitchen. A glass-divided private dining room offers the popular business crowd a quiet space for important conversations–or expense-account-powered loud client parties.
The menu
The primarily seafood fare features a good selection of raw bar items including 9 oyster varieties, caviar and ceviche. For appetizers and main courses, chef Mark Franz creates inventive seasonal dishes that celebrate their main ingredients. The menu is very appetizing, the type that leaves you wondering what to order. Vegetarian appetizers and meat entrées are also available for the sea averse, just in case.
The meal
Two types of fresh bread are served with butter, topped with Hawaiian red Alaea sea salt. The red salt crystals gain their bright color as a result of volcanic clay meeting ocean waters.
As an amuse bouche, English pea purée, lemon agrumato olive oil. A delicate dish combining the freshness of the pea purée with the citric aroma of the agrumato oil–which is made from the first pressing of olives and lemons.
For appetizer, Champagne cured monterey sardines, heirloom tomato salsa, crisp shoestring potatoes, lemon crème fraîche. Beautifully presented, the sardines are incredibly fresh and perfectly cooked. Accompanied by well-balanced ingredients that highlight its flavors and complement its texture.
A non-seafood appetizer worth trying is the RHS farms heirloom tomato salad, Idiazabal cheese croquettes, olive oil fried almonds, aged sherry gelée. The flavorful tomatoes are served with crispy outside and creamy inside croquettes made with the nutty, smoky sheep’s milk cheese. The sherry gelée is also very good.
As a main course, Seared Alaskan halibut, English pea puree, Dungeness crab hash, truffled Madeira vinaigrette. Another perfectly cooked fresh fish; moist and flavorful. The purée and vinaigrette bring a delightful lusciousness to the dish. All flavors complement each other beautifully.
Before dessert, a delicate palate cleanser of Blackberry, pear sorbet and vanilla Chantilly. 
To finish, Frozen butterscotch cream tart, Valrhona Araguani chocolate sauce, chocolate pecan coconut crunch. A rich and tasty dessert that, despite its ingredients list, is not too sweet. It’s just right. A delicious combination of textures and flavors with the creamy butterscotch and the bitter chocolate sauce made from Venezuelan cacao beans.
In short
The original, albeit slightly theme-parky ambiance, made Farallon a San Francisco landmark. And to a certain extend, a touristic attraction. But this Union Square restaurant is worth putting your prejudice aside to enjoy its fresh, inventive coastal cuisine. But remember to smile, you may end up on someone’s photo album.
Farallon is at 450 Post Street
Online reservations
Farallon, San Francisco
Lever House, New York (closed)
In one of my favorite restaurants in the US, it’s not the food that I find particularly remarkable. It’s everything around it. If you’ve ever read me commenting on San Francisco’s lack of interesting interior designs, this is what I’m talking about. Beyond the West/East cost comparison, Lever House’s original and tasteful modern design is second to none.
The restaurant opened its doors in 2003 as part of a renovation project for the Park Avenue building it borrows its name. Lever House, the curtain wall skyscraper, was built in the early 50s to house Lever Brothers’ offices. In the 80s, the soap company’s headquarters was recognized as a New York landmark.
The restaurant was designed from the ground up by Marc Newson, one of the most prolific designers of his generation. Known for his futuristic take on everything from furniture to aircraft design, the Australia-born Newson was hired by NYC’s restaurateurs John McDonald and Josh Pickard to remodel the 6,500-square-foot area once used for conference rooms and company store. Five million dollars later, the subterranean, windowless space was completely transformed. The result is a retro modern design that pays homage to the 50s’ vision of the future while being enviously contemporary.
In contrast to the busy street outside, guests walk down a futuristic tunnel leading to the long dining room. The view is arresting. Newson’s design is marked by curvilinear forms and honeycomb geometry. Raised booths feature curved banquettes and hexagon pattern mirrors framed like airplane windows.
Over the custom designed carpet, 12 tables and beautiful molded wood and leather chairs are surrounded by a long L-shaped banquette. A bright, spacious bar and a private dining room bookend the space.
Much like Oscar Niemeyer’s Brasilia–a remarkable example of modern architecture built entirely from scratch, Newson’s transformation of a subterranean space into an iconic restaurant is spectacular. Granted in much smaller scale.
The menu
This review could very well end here. The description above should be enough to get you interested. Don’t get me wrong; you will eat well at Lever House. No question about it. But it seems even the restaurant puts its other attributes ahead of the food–the Chef’s bio is the fifth down the list on the restaurant’s site. All in all, the menu selections are appetizing. Lunch fare is lighter and includes sandwiches and a few salads. Dinner has more varied options of chef Bradford Thompson’s modern American cuisine. Prices are on the steep side though, not all places can charge $26 for a lunch burger. The crowd of yuppies and expense account executives don’t seem to mind.
The meal
I dined at Lever House a few times. The dishes on this review are from the lunch menu I tried in my last visit. Both dinner and lunch are very good.
Individually baked rolls are served with soft butter. Unfortunately, the bread is also on the soft side.
Among the appetizers available at both lunch and dinner, a highlight is the Chilled Local Sweet Corn Soup, Lobster Knuckles, Basil, Cherry Tomatoes. A very flavorful, creamy soup poured at the table over a tiny piece of lobster and blanched tomatoes.
For main course, a dish that may peak your curiosity is the Maine Lobster ‘BLT’ on Potato Dill Roll, Tempura Bacon, Oven Cured Tomatoes, Tarragon Rémoulade. It peaked mine, although my palate was left disappointed. The lobster texture is lost in the somewhat dry patty and the roasted tomatoes lack the contrast usually brought by fresh ones. On a brighter note, the tempura bacon is great, thin and crispy.
A side order of Hand Cut French Fries is suggested by the sharp wait staff. They are worth it.
For dessert, Caramel Pot the Crème, Ricotta Beignets, Sautèed Plums and Heirloom Tomatoes. The consistency resembles a flan more than a pot de crème and the tomatoes, despite being an inventive topping, add more color than flavor. But in the end, this is a good dessert. The beignets are fluffy and the plum preserve adds a nice tart balance.
To finish, a plate of house made Biscotti sent by the chef.
In short
Lever House is a great example of how a restaurant experience can go far beyond the food. You will eat well but, most importantly, eat in a remarkably well-designed space. A design that deserves a place in the MoMA (which already made many of Newson’s creations part of their permanent collection). But if that’s not something you particularly care for, it will feel overpriced. At Lever House, service and ambiance are definitely included in the bill, and in this case, the ambiance is worth paying for.
Lever House has closed in April 2009.
It was located at 390 Park Ave.
Per Se, New York
After 3 months of daily calls to The French Laundry and unsuccessful attempts at getting a reservation, I decided to change my tactics. Maybe the easiest way to go to The French Laundry is to go to Per Se. It only took one call, and my name was on the book a month from the day. All I could get was lunch at 11:30am, but I was in, and looking forward to it. The confirmation email stated the rules:
Jackets are required for gentlemen and we do not permit jeans, shorts or sneakers. There is a $175 per person cancellation fee for reservations cancelled within 72 hours.
I packed my best suit and headed out to NY in what became an epicure’s tour de force, a week of nightly tasting menus that ended in a perfect meal (more on that later).
When Thomas Keller was working on his project to mirror his famous west cost restaurant in NY, the chef often described the new venture as not being The French Laundry, per se. Hence the name. The idea was to create an urban interpretation of the small Yountville restaurant in the heart of Manhattan. While some things would be shared, Per Se would carry its own identity.
The announcement was received with a mix of excitement and skepticism. Would Keller be able to extend his unmatchable quality to a second outpost? The selected location only fueled the uncertainty. Could exclusivity and intimacy exist inside a mall? Per Se is located in the 4th floor of the busy Time Warner Center at Columbus circle. To escape the shopping fuss, elevators are recommended.
The entrance to Per Se bears resemblance to French Laundry’s. But in NY, the blue door doesn’t really open, it’s just a decorative pillar to 2 sleek automatic glass panes on both sides. An urban adaptation of the original. Curiously, as I sat outside and watched guests come in, people seemed to always go for the blue door, unsuccessfully and somewhat embarrassingly trying to push and pull until they noticed the sliding doors on the side. A subliminal sign that this may not be a place for everyone.
The lunch crowd at Per Se is a mix of business executives riding limitless expense accounts, socialites in casual rendezvous and food enthusiasts that travel from afar to experience Mr. Keller’s cuisine.
The ambiance is formal and elegant but not ostentatious. The interior is designed to contrast its corporate housing with earthy tones and beautiful wood panels creating a warm atmosphere in the high-ceilings dining room. The quiet split-level room is ample with only 15 tables generously spaced so that every guest is guaranteed a breathtaking view to Central Park. Everything is carefully planed and executed, to the smallest details. Service is no exception.
The staff at Per Se has an unparalleled level of training. In fact, before it opened, Keller closed The French Laundry for 3 months and flew his crew to prepare their NY counterparts. The result, extremely attentive service, present always before you need it, invisible when necessary. Never pompous, pushy or pretentious. In total, the restaurant employs over 150 people.
Silverware and dinnerware are carefully selected for each individual course, framing the food in perfect form and function.
The menu
Per Se offers two 9-course tasting menus, one being vegetarian. For lunch, a 5-course (more like 8) option is also available. French Laundry habitués will find a few comforting classics but the NY restaurant has its own fare. An appetizing succession of dishes, carefully created in perfect harmony and flow. New menus are printed every day; previous day’s copies are available as souvenirs outside.
The meal
A visit to Per Se’s kitchen reveals an immaculate room working in perfect order and discipline. The focused kitchen staff meticulously preparing dish by dish under Jonathan Benno, the chef de cuisine. It is a paperless kitchen, the only voices you hear are the chef’s calling the orders and the sous chef’s repeating them. For the cooks, this is a dream job; and that can be seen in their proud expressions. Their attention to details is on par with the most perfect of perfectionists. On the wall, an item not usually found in a restaurant’s kitchen, a flat screen monitor with a live video feed to The French Laundry. Using remote controlled cameras, both chefs can see what the other is doing and, at any time, Keller can oversee his staff whereas he’s in NY or Yountville.
Everything is prepared with only the best possible ingredients, hand-selected from Keller’s preferred farms and purveyors. Small portions are designed to peak your palate and leave you wanting more. But never hungry. Prime ingredients like caviar and truffles are served generously so their flavors can be fully appreciated. Nothing is gratuitous, everything has a purpose and sometimes the purpose is to surprise.
Dinner starts with warm GRUYERE PUFFS. Flavorful, they melt in your mouth.
Next, The French Laundry’s signature “CORNETS”, Salmon Tartare with Sweet Red Onion Crème Fraîche. A delicious dish that is as fun to look at, as it is tasty. A delicate crunchy cornet is filled with the sweet onion crème fraîche and topped with the olive and lemon oil marinated, finely minced tartare. A recipe for this dish is available in The French Laundry’s cookbook.
First course (or third, depending on who’s counting), SMOKED COLUMBIA RIVER STURGEON. Pumpernickel Croûton, Horseradish Vinaigrette and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. A flavorful, perfectly balanced dish, served with a generous portion of California caviar.
For the second course, two options are available. TERRINE OF 24 CARROT FARM’S RABBIT. Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras, “Ris de Veau”, Celery Branch, Marinated Mission Figs and Grilled “Pain de Campagne” with Summer Truffle Vinaigrette. A luscious, creamy terrine layered with foie, veal sweetbreads and a generous quantity of shaved black truffles. Irresistibly delicious. As a proof that service is always ahead, a new plate of warm grilled bread was brought in midway through to replace the ones that had cooled off.
TARTARE OF KINDAI BLUEFIN TUNA. Oregano-Scented Lavash, Heirloom Tomatoes, Pickled Pearl Onions and Petite Basil with Tomato Consommé “en Gelée”. A delicate combination of flavors and textures makes this dish a much lighter option to the terrine.
At this point, 2 types of butter are brought to the table. Sweet butter from Marin, California and Fleur de Sel infused butter from Loire, France. Five house made types of breads are served.
As an extra course sent by the chef, Raw Snapper, Cucumbers and Yuzu Sauce. Fresh, delicate and tasty.
Third, SAUTÉED FILLET OF CHATHAM BAY COD. Confit of Cuttlefish, Caramelized Summer Squash and Fennel Bulb with Fennel Pollen Emulsion. The flaky, moist, perfectly cooked cod is nicely complemented by a flavorful caramel scented emulsion and the lightly chewy texture of the mollusk. A delicious dish.
Forth, ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM’S “SELLE D’AGNEAU RÔTIE ENTIERE”. “Cassoulet” of Summer Pole Beans with Compressed Watermelon and Lamb Sauce. The lamb is extremely tender and juicy, served with also perfectly cooked beans and the pleasantly surprising watermelon cubes. Thomas Keller, a big advocate of the sous vide technique, uses a vacuum sealer to compact watermelon into tight cubes that resemble the texture of an apple and pack intense watermelon flavor. They bring a fresh contrast to the dish. A meticulously minced brunoise shows the chef’s relentless perfectionism. Two additional types of bread are served along with this dish.
Fifth, CARAÏBE. “Caraïbe” Meringue Mousse, Caramel “Crémeux”, Devil’s Food Cake, Golden Pineapple and Cashew Ice Cream. A beautiful dessert that tastes as good as it looks. The salty caramel and creamy ice cream work perfectly well together with the rich chocolate cake.
Two extra desserts are sent to the table. Amuse-bouche-sized classics, a different one for each of us. A yogurt pot the crème over raspberry preserves.
And a mini Crème brûlée. Both delicate and flavorful. The kind that leaves you wanting more. A lot more.
To finish, a selection of MIGNARDISES. First, house made truffles are brought in. Then, a beautiful silver container unfolds revealing a myriad of chocolates, nougat and hard candy.
To take home, a house made layered pastry, packed ready to go.
After the long lunch, we sat on the benches outside the entrance to savor and look back at every moment. There was a sense of fulfillment only interrupted by a faint sadness that reminded us that, rather quickly, it was all over. Apart from the pastry at hand, all that was left were the memories of a perfect meal.
In short
Thomas Keller is quoted by saying “When you acknowledge as you must, that there’s no such thing as perfect food, only the idea of it, then the real purpose of striving towards perfection becomes clear; to make people happy. That’s what cooking is all about.” To me, perfection is not an absolute concept but rather a relative notion. In other words, perfection can better be measured by practical experience than theoretical expectation. Therefore, Mr. Keller, I respectfully disagree. To my judgment, what I had was, well, perfect.
Per Se is at 10 Columbus Circle
Online reservations
wd~50, New York
You’ve probably seen him on Top Chef, Iron Chef and After Hours with Daniel. Wylie Dufresne’s traits more accurately depict a scientist than a typical chef. Blame his quiet demeanor, wire rimmed glasses and shoulder-length straight hair. At wd~50, you may not see him running around the kitchen, calling orders or getting his hands dirty during service, but Dufresne is unquestionably the force behind one of NYC’s most inventive restaurants. One that, just like its chef, proves that appearances can be deceiving but also remarkably surprising.
Located in the lower east side, a neighborhood once occupied solely by immigrants and lower-class workers, wd~50’s facade stands out as a sign of modern gentrification. Surrounded by an endless number of cheap nail salons and graffiti covered garage doors. Its $140 prix fixe menu contrasting with the $6 meals offered down the street; while its bright sign–glowing in red and blue neon light, asks permission to fit in. The name, often confused with the all-American oil spray, is the combination of the chef’s initials and its street address, 50 Clinton St.
Inside, in the colorful, modern dining room, 14 tables are illuminated by blown glass lamps and spotlights. A long, comfortable leather banquette splits the room giving the 4 booths behind it additional privacy. Two small tables and the bar counter offer casual seating for walk ins. Dufresne’s silhouette can often be seen at the end of the room, standing tall against the bright kitchen light. Like a commander-in-chief, arms crossed overlooking the front of the house, telling his manager where important patrons should sit.
The ambiance is intimate but unfussy. Solid wood tables are set with woven vinyl placemats and standard flatware. The wait staff dressed casually in jeans, burgundy shirts and black aprons.
The menu
In another contrasting play on appearances, wd~50’s fine dining menu is presented in a cheap plastic portfolio, its pages inserted into removable transparent pockets. First, a good selection of à la carte appetizers and mains, described only by their ingredients. On the last page, the popular 12-course tasting menu–the best way to experience the restaurant’s inventive cuisine.
The meal
The classically trained Wylie Dufresne is a disciple of Ferran Àdria. His pastry chef, Alex Stupak, was recruited from Alinea in Chicago, which together with wd~50 are in the forefront of molecular gastronomy in America.
Dufresne’s cuisine is marked by stunning presentations and inventive plays on ingredients’ textures and flavors. All possible through relentless research and experimentation of techniques (the restaurant’s kitchen is filled with countless pots of emulsifiers, gelifiers and other altering substances). The result is a dining experience in which the only predictability is that you’ll be surprised.
To start, paper thin, crunchy sesame flat bread served on a bamboo tray.
First course, Ocean trout, goat cheese, tamarind, celery root. The fish is cured in green tea and rolled around a dollop of goat cheese spread. The sweet tamarind is presented as a “paper” and purée.
Second, Grilled corn pebbles, lime mayo, scallion. The sweet and smoky hazelnut-size pebbles are deliciously flavorful. They have a light, dry, doughy texture that dissolves in your mouth. A delicate dish that honestly deserved to be served with smaller flatware instead of a disproportional standard size tablespoon.
Third, Knot foie. A creamy foie paste is made into a long knotted strand and topped with rice puffs that add a crunchy texture. Served with sweet raisin purée and chili to complement the subtle foie paste flavor.
Forth, Hamachi tartare, wakame, sake lees tahini, grapefruit-shallot. The fresh hamachi is diced, put back together as a terrine then lightly seared with a blowtorch. Served with pears tossed in sake tahini sauce and topped with seaweed. A nice combination of bitter, sweet flavors and textures.
Fifth, Eggs benedict. Dufresne’s famous reinterpretation of the classic brunch dish is simply put, extraordinary. From the eggs, only yolks are used to make a slowly cooked cylinder of strong color and taste. The hollandaise sauce is frozen in small cubes and breaded with ground-up English muffins then deep-fried. The result is a fine croquette crust around the warm liquid sauce. Served with paper-thin Canadian bacon.
Sixth, Crab tail, soybean noodles, cinnamon dashi. In this dish, sea salt and Thai basil top a delicate sheet of soybean noodle that covers fried yellow lentils and crab. Only one problem, the cinnamon broth aroma is overpowering and takes over all other flavors.
Seventh, Chicken liver spaetzle, pine needle, radish, cocoa nib. Dufresne’s take on the classic German dish. Made with lightly seared chicken liver dumplings and served over spinach and bean sprouts. A light green pine needle emulsion dusted with cocoa nibs covers the inside of the bowl. Its brisk aroma, although not overpowering, is too strong when smelled up close.
Eight, Beef tongue, cherry-miso, fried quinoa, palm seeds. This deeply flavorful dish brings together a nice combination of tastes and textures. The thin slices of tender sous vide braised tongue are served with sweet cherry miso, salty soft king oyster mushroom and crispy quinoa. A great dish.
Ninth, Blackberry, honey, sour cream, green tea. The first dessert is pleasantly fresh. The lightly gelatinized orange blossom honey is served hot with lime zest, fresh and frozen blackberries.
Tenth, Jasmine custard, black tea, banana. A tasty and fun dessert with flavorful banana ice cream and milk foam.
Eleventh, Toasted coconut cake, carob, smoked cashew, brown butter sorbet. Quite possibly one of the best desserts I ever had. The coconut cake is light and soft; the brown butter sorbet, creamy and decadent.
Twelfth, Yuzu ice cream-marcona almond. The last dessert is a play on the Japanese ice cream served with a chocolate packet filled crunchy chocolate crisp. Good, but probably unnecessary. I would have been happy ending on the coconut cake.
As a side note, on my Tasting NY tour, Wd~50 was the only restaurant that didn’t give out a coffee cake to go as part of their tasting menu.
In short
Wylie Dufresne’s cuisine challenges conventional expectations. His inventive combinations of flavors and textures are artfully presented in a tasting menu that never ceases to surprise. Even when eventually science wins over soul as his complex techniques at times overshadow flavors. It is unfortunate that the restaurant doesn’t take its perfectionism much beyond the food. Dufresne’s creations deserve a more polished mise en scène. And that could easily be accomplished without compromising the restaurant’s welcoming unfussiness. Think custom flatware. All in all, wd~50 is unquestionably one of the most interesting restaurants in the United States. Jackets are not required, but preconceptions are better left at home.
wd~50 is at 50 Clinton St.
Online reservations
Raviolo di ricotta at 
