Fleur de Sel, New York

The understated facade in the heart of the Flatiron district hides a charming restaurant that contrasts the busy New York neighborhood with a calming, intimate atmosphere.



Inside, exposed brick and linen walls, floor tiles and walnut wood paneling surround the small dining room. A dark purple banquette peppered with modern throw pillows frames 16 tables under a soft, amber light. Jazz music plays quietly in the background. All together they create a simple elegance that is more rustic than sophisticated.



Fleur de Sel is not about being trendy or perfect. The décor could be more refined, service could be more polished and the crowd is not there to see or be seen. But this casual authenticity may very well be what chef/owner Cyril Renaud strives for.



Renaud and his family are behind the restaurant’s interior design. His abstract paintings can be seen hanging on the walls but it is in the kitchen that his talent is fully appreciated.

The menu

Diners can select from a 3 or 6-course menu. The former offers about 9 options for each; appetizers, entrées and desserts. For the 6-course tasting menu, there are 2 options for each dish. Dishes are prepared with seasonal ingredients and influenced by the French Breton cuisine. All choices are well described and appetizing.

The meal



As an amuse bouche, Chilled tomato strawberry soup with basil oil. A refreshing, light start curiously similar to Gramercy Tavern’s palate cleanser.



First course, Lobster salad, orange & grapefruit, caviar citrus vinaigrette. A delicate combination of flavors with the perfectly cooked lobster accompanied by a nice balance of acidity and sweetness.



Second, Sweet corn & foie gras ravioli, caramelized cèpes, Madeira sauce. Served over a bright colored spinach purée, the fine ravioli dissolves in your mouth bringing together the subtle yet rich foie, nutty porcini and sweet corn. A very flavorful dish.



As an alternative, Duck confit croquette, raisin coulis, apple & frisée salad. Crunchy and moist, although I’d recommend the ravioli.



Third, Pan seared wild striped bass, green asparagus, baby bok choy & turnips, chive coulis. Another colorful dish rich in flavor and texture with the tasty albeit slightly overcooked fish and crunchy vegetables.



As an alternative, Steamed lemon fluke, Mediterranean couscous , onion tomato sofrito, lime zest.



Forth, Roulade of quail, foie gras & mushroom stuffing, broccoli rabe, armagnac sauce. A flavorful dish, combining the rich stuffed quail with the bitterness of the broccoli and the sweetness of poached pears.



Fifth, Selection of American artisanal cheeses. Including cow’s milk Camembert, Blue, goat’s milk Cannonball, and the delicious award-winning Summer Tomme from Willow Hill Farm. A rich and buttery sheep’s milk cheese made with an herb crust. Interestingly, Fleur de Sel was the only restaurant that offered a cheese course in my Tasting NY tour.



Sixth, Raspberry chocolate tart, spicebread crumble, raspberry ice cream. The beautifully presented dessert is good but not remarkable. Somewhat similar to Gramercy Tavern’s but more predictable. The sweet raspberry syrup is almost too expected and lacked the complexity something like blood orange would have brought.

To finish, house made petit fours and chocolate truffles. To take home, a coffee cake packed for the morning after.

In short

The small French restaurant from chef Cyril Renaud may not have the allure of Gramercy Tavern one block down the street; but it can be a good alternative for those seeking a more intimate, romantic atmosphere. Renaud’s flavorful food is beautifully presented in a well thought out tasting menu. Even though no single dish stands out as memorable, it is a very good meal.



Fleur de Sel is at 5 East 20th St.
Online reservations

Gramercy Tavern, New York

The name Gramercy Tavern is usually preceded with the phrase “You can’t go wrong with”. One of NYC’s favorite restaurants among locals and visiting food enthusiasts has received a myriad of awards including one Michelin star, three from the New York Times and, more recently, the 2008 Outstanding Restaurant Award from the James Beard Foundation. In both public opinion and press accolades, “consistency” is often regarded as its best quality.



The restaurant is divided in two areas; the more relaxed tavern that can be seen through the glass facade and the formal dining room. The latter stretching through 3 rather large spaces that in total sit well over 200 guests. A surprisingly large capacity for a restaurant of this level.



The interior design is a contemporary take on the classic American tavern, with high beamed ceilings and solid wood furniture. Long banquettes upholstered with muted floral patterns, large paintings resembling Native American patterns and pottery displays take you from a busy Manhattan neighborhood to a quaint Yosemite-like lodge.



While the dim light of copper sconces and scattered candles provide an intimate atmosphere, strong spotlights aimed at each table make sure you see what you eat.

Service is very professional and attentive. Each table is set with a great deal of care in every detail; plates facing the correct way, glasses wiped clean, flatware properly spaced. As our drink orders arrived, the waitress asked if we wanted to look at the menu or take our time and relax enjoying our wine first–something rare as restaurants rush service to fit as many sittings per table as possible.

There’s a noticeable gap between staff levels though. While waiters eloquently describe dishes, whenever food is served by food runners, explanations are often wrong or confused.

The menu

There are 3 dinner options at the dining room. You can select your dishes from a three-course menu as well as order the full six-course Summer or Vegetable tasting menu. The restaurant is welcoming when it comes to swaps or substitutions. Although the three-course option had some of the most appetizing dishes, I decided to try the chef’s tasting menu.

The meal

Michael Anthony’s French training is apparent in the sauces and techniques employed in his dishes. There’s also a Japanese influence noticeable in the delicate fish preparations and presentations. His food is honest to ingredients and makes the most out of each.



Individual bread rolls are served with butter and fleur de sel, promptly after ordering. But unlike most high-end San Francisco restaurants, in NY as proven by my tasting tour de force, serving warm bread doesn’t seem to be a common practice. Gramercy’s was fresh but cold.



As an amuse bouche, House made mortadella, pickled chipollini onions, pistachio. Despite its tiny size, it was a tasty start. But not very surprising.



For the first course, Citrus Cured Arctic Char Lemon Confit. The delicate dish is prepared with char tartar wrapped in lemon-cured char, served with picked Swiss chard. A beautiful presentation with subtle flavors, almost too subtle.



Second; Smoked Trout, Cippollini Purée and Pickled Onion Vinaigrette. The star of this dish isn’t the fish but the onions. Prepared in 3 different ways, from a mild purée to a tangy vinaigrette. The trout itself was fresh and well cooked but by the end of the second course, I was ready for stronger flavors.



Third; Cod, Zucchini Purée and Avocado Squash. A celebration of squash, prepared in 3 different ways. Thin slices of avocado squash, a Korean variety distinguished for its nutty, buttery taste bring a crunchy texture while a smooth zucchini purée ads creaminess to the dish. To complete, a zucchini blossom adds its beautiful color. The cod is perfectly cooked and flavorful.



Forth; Duck Confit, Heirloom Peppers and Eggplant Purée. The duck is crispy and moist; the vegetables, a nice accompaniment. A tasty dish with only one flaw, its size. Almost too small to be appreciated.



Fifth, Rack of Veal, Corn, Tomato and Basil. Served with summer peak white corn, sungold and sun dried heirloom tomatoes. The meat is flavorful, tender and juicy. A good main course.



The first surprising dish on the menu came as a palate cleanser before dessert. A refreshing Strawberry tomato soup served with cherry tomato wedges, lightly salted almonds and balsamic reduction.



There are only 2 options for the tasting dessert; Lemon verbena granita over peach ice cream and a Chocolate hazelnut mousse. In my opinion, the best course on the menu. The delicate mousse is served with mocha ice cream and a caramelized hazelnut. A beautiful combination of flavors and textures worthy of every scoop.

Regrettably absent from the tasting menu is the restaurant’s enviable cheese selection. But as a nice way to remember the dinner from the night before, you go home with a Coffee cake, nicely wrapped to go.

In short

Gramercy Tavern offers a welcoming, elegant ambiance and sharp, attentive service. Michael Anthony’s celebrated cuisine also won’t disappoint. But is quality consistency enough to make an outstanding restaurant? The tasting menu although impeccably prepared felt flat at points until flavors picked up towards the end. I was expecting more diversity of flavors and inventiveness. Apart from the last 2 dishes, I can’t say it was a memorable meal. But in all fairness, eating well is not a synonym with innovation. And if a great meal is guaranteed every time you go, that alone is a well worth reason for Gramercy Tavern to be in so many people’s favorites lists.



Gramercy Tavern is at 42 E. 20th St
Online reservations

Tasting New York

A week of fine dining and high cholesterol. An epicure’s tour de force. Read the reviews and eat vicariously with stunning pictures from the tasting menus of per se, wd-50, Gramercy Tavern and Fleur de Sel. Ganache tasting at Maison du Chocolat and other tasty favorites like Lever House, Blue Ribbon and Raoul's. Starting next week at No salad as a meal. Jackets required.

Bar Jules, San Francisco

No reservations are taken for Bar Jules’ coveted weekend brunch. So arrive early, but not too early as doors open only at 11am. And not too late, as soon thereafter all 18 tables and 10 counter stools will inevitably be taken.



This small Hayes Valley restaurant offers an unfussy, colorful atmosphere to loyal locals and passersby. The welcoming all-women wait staff make sure you feel at home while chef/owner Jessica Boncutter can be seen behind the dining counter running her kitchen.



Work starts early, way before brunch service begins. From outside you can see them calmly prepping ingredients and getting the kitchen ready for a busy morning to come.

The menu



The menu changes every day. Its selection displayed on 2 blackboards that hang on the dining room walls. They are hand written by the staff right before the doors open revealing that day’s unique fare. Even thought the menu is short, the ever-changing options are very appetizing. A few signature dishes seem to always make the list, sometimes varying slightly to reflect what the chef gets from local farmers. Mixed berries or strawberries, short ribs or lamb.

The meal



Bar Jules serves coffee from Blue Bottle, brewed in individual French presses. A great start.



One of the signature dishes, often recommended by the staff, is the Cornmeal-buttermilk griddlecakes with strawberries and maple syrup. But this is no ordinary spongy, dry pancake. The fried griddlecakes have a creamy inside that melts in your mouth, the cornmeal adding a nice texture to it.



On the savory side, try the Fried eggs with potatoes, gypsy peppers, tomato salsa with grass fed skirt steak. A tasty dish colorful in appearance and flavors. The meat is tender and cooked to the desired doneness.



The Scrambled eggs with Parmesan and sorrel; prosciutto and grilled bread is also good. This simple egg dish is sometimes prepared with Gruyere instead. The prosciutto properly served cold on the side.



On a heavier side, try the Baked eggs with short ribs, potatoes and corn. A very hearty dish that calls for a hearty appetite. Flavorful and aromatic, the slow braised meat is served with of fresh parsley and capers.



There are no sweet side dishes like pastries or merveilles on the menu. The only option is the River cafe chocolate nemesis. A very rich and moist flourless cake served with a dollop of house made whipped cream. Delicious but a little too much for a brunch appetite.

In short

Bar Jules is a welcoming neighborhood restaurant that’s open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. The seasonal brunch menu is short but inventive and the food is prepared with care. The lack of side dishes, especially sweets, is the only downside. Like at Canteen, you may leave happy but longing for another bite.

Bar Jules is at 609 Hayes St.
No reservations are taken.

Entremet: Le Sanctuaire

San Francisco's most exclusive cooking store has no storefront, window display or street sign. It hides on the fifth floor of a small commercial building near the busy Union square. In the elevator, the “5” button is disabled, a discreet sign asks visitors to call to be escorted to the store. There’s nothing obvious about it, its inconspicuous entrance is the opposite of your typical culinary store. But inside, the small showroom makes Williams-Sonoma look like Wal-Mart.



The minimalist room resembles a museum gallery more than a retail space. Kitchen design objects, rare ingredients and chef must-haves, all displayed in glass cases, with all the pomp and circumstance. If you've ever been to Moss in NY, you know the feeling. Mere squirt bottles are showcased like works of art. No hanging price tags.



Despite the small space, the selection is impressive. Endless spices organized in shallow acrylic boxes, piled up on pristine white shelves. Exclusive flatware from elBulli. Molecular gastronomy ingredients complete with Adrià’s coveted tools. All carefully curated and neatly displayed. Le Sanctuaire is an epicure’s museum. But one you can taste and buy from. It doesn’t get better than that.

Le Sanctuaire is at 315 Sutter Street, 5th Floor
Online shopping is also available

Boulettes Larder, San Francisco

After eating lunch a few times at the popular Ferry Building eatery, I decided to try Boulettes Larder’s Sunday brunch. When I arrived a few minutes before 10am, the wait staff seemed confused, walking around with no reason like free-range chickens. The host curiously starting every sentence with an apology.



A few parties with reservations waited anxiously outside for their spot at the coveted communal table. Since the space is tight inside, most people are regretfully turned down. Not without an apology.



While the overflow sits at the less original outside tables, a dozen or so enjoy a privileged view of the beautiful industrial kitchen, only a few feet from the counters and stoves where the cooks are preparing the morning meals. The atmosphere is welcoming and warm; like eating at a charming grandma’s country house. The intimate space also yields more attentive service compared to the often forgotten outside patio, where I sat.

The menu

Boulettes Larder is an active member of the Slow Food movement. The restaurant offers a selection of dishes prepared with locally grown, organic ingredients from sustainable farmers. And that seems to be the focus of all attention. But apart from some pastries, the quirkily described brunch menu is hardly a brunch menu. There are only a couple of egg dishes; most of the other options are better suited for a lunch appetite.

The meal



One of the highlights on the menu is the b/L Beignets with fairy dust. Served warm, crispy outside and creamy inside. Dusted with sugar they are, next to Spruce’s and Town’s, on my top beignets list.



Unfortunately, one of the egg dishes was extremely disappointing. Anson mills white corn grits with greens and poached eggs, Italian two milk robiola cheese. Bland in appearance and taste. Monochromatic and devoid of any complexity of flavors. Apart from the pungent cheese, it tasted like hospital food. Well prepared, sustainable, organic hospital food nonetheless.



The other egg dish was the Scrambled eggs, chorizo boulettes, coriander spiced oranges. The eggs were nicely cooked, served moist, well balanced with the tasty sausage. A much better option in appearance, taste and texture.

In my lunch visits to B/l, I had similar inconsistent experiences. Some dishes were honestly flavorful (gemelli with pork ragout) while others were considerably bland (paella).

One thing you can count on is coffee. From Blue Bottle, served in individual French presses, available in 2 sizes. Expensive but worth it.

In short

Despite the welcoming open kitchen (assuming you can get a seat inside), eating at Boulettes Larder can sometimes disappoint, especially for what they charge. Its self-absorbing attitude every so often takes a toll on how good things actually taste. It can be brilliant but it can also be bland. Hit or miss, so far it’s been 50/50.

Boulettes Larder is at 1 Ferry Building #48
For reservations, call (415) 399-1155

The Waverly Inn and Garden, NY

Try to make a reservation at the popular Waverly Inn and Garden and you may find its telephone number hard to come by. The unlisted restaurant hides behind an understated facade in a residential city block in the Greenwich Village. Its popularity arguably a result of being out of reach for the unpopular crowd. While mere mortals may have a hard time getting in; movie stars, socialites and billionaires have tables guaranteed. Once inside, celebrity spotting is assured. No wonder the paparazzi line up every night outside the door, come rain or shine. For obvious reasons, cameras are not welcomed inside; hence the illustrated reenactment that follows.



Located under an apartment building, the restaurant is accessible only through a discreet door, a few steps below ground level. Right next to it, a metal plaque proudly announces “The Waverly Inn. Since 1920”. There are 3 sections inside; the bar, the main dining room and a covered garden (nicknamed “Siberia” for seating the less glamorous clientele, according to the New York Times,). The atmosphere is of a bohemian 1920s private club with hints of classic American taverns. Dimly lit by wall sconces under low, beamed ceilings. Except for the airy, vine covered garden, the somewhat claustrophobic space seems to come from a Harry Potter passage. All walls covered with turn of the century portraits–or at least made to look that way.

Hobnobbing with People Magazine’s A/B lists is a mix of preppy New Yorkers and 50-somethings sporting tall lacquered hairdos, oversized pearl necklaces and their best eveningwear.



The sharp wait staff buzzes around the dim dining room, as if trained to seeing in the dark –and being oblivious to the glaring celebrities.


The menu

The words “Preview Menu” are printed in capital letters above and below the single-page sheet. Technically, The Waverly is not officially open. A clever excuse for creating an extra sense of exclusivity. But the allure seems to fade away when it comes to the food. Nothing sounds exceptional on the menu, except maybe the prices. Like a mac-and-cheese for sixty-five dollars. One I undoubtedly had to try.


The meal

In one word, average. Sloppy presentations, uninspiring flavors, little inventiveness. Far from fine dining. One of the appetizers recommended was an Heirloom tomato salad that, although described eloquently by our waiter, is plain and carelessly presented.



The Grilled salmon toro with wild mushrooms is a better choice. Although slightly charred, it is tender and juicy. Mushrooms and greens are somewhat soggy though, laid on the plate with no ceremony.



Now for the $65 Mac-and-cheese. In all fairness, it is topped with fresh shaved black truffles. But not enough truffles if you ask me. I follow Thomas Keller’s school of thought that such prime ingredients should be served with no economy for their true appreciation. At The Waverly, the table-shaved truffle is no match for the pungent mac-and-cheese. It’s flavor disappearing almost completely. All in all this is a tasty dish, just not worth sixty-five dollars.



I also tried the Cedar plank brook trout with roasted carrots. Another miss. Points for the presentation but overall it was dry and uninteresting.



For dessert, the Vermont Chevre Cheesecake Berry coulis is good but nothing more than ordinary. Despite the prominent goat cheese taste, the dessert lacked complexity of flavors.


In short

In one of the most alluring restaurants in NY, the food is far from glamorous. But if you don’t mind paying high-prices for ordinary American food, The Waverly is definitely worth going once, for the experience. Even for the celebrity-immune, you will still enjoy the authentic old-school New York ambiance. That if you know someone that knows someone that can get you in, of course.



The Waverly Inn and Garden is at 16 Bank St.