A tour of COI’s kitchen reveals the heart and soul of the restaurant. Twelve people crowded around a stainless steel island, busily preparing the intricate dinner dishes. They seem oblivious to the visible lack of space, constantly dodging each other with speed and grace. Chef Daniel Patterson leading the charge with focus and calm. He comes across as confident but humble, taking the time to ask me if everything was okay with my dinner when I meet him afterwards.
Like in most art fields, skills and technique you can learn; but talent, you either have it or not. Patterson is one of the most talented chefs I know. A perfectionist, meticulously devoted to creating inventive dishes that are not shy in flavors.
With the gained popularity of Ferran Adrià’s molecular gastronomy, it’s not uncommon to find restaurants experimenting with its techniques. In most cases though, flavor is second to fuss. Not at COI. Here, every ingredient has a purpose, every technique a reason. The 11-course menu is a fête for the mind and palate, complete with surprising flavors and presentations. Unforgettable from the first bite.
San Francisco is not known for the originality of its restaurant designs. But at COI (pronounced /KWA/, a French word for tranquil), the minimalist dining room plays an important role in creating a memorable dining experience. Accessible through narrow entrance, the 10-table dining room is decorated in muted shades of brown and beige, illuminated by the soft light of rice paper ceiling panels. Wall-to-wall banquettes frame the only 2 lineups of white linen covered tables. Simple, modern, clean. As if devoid of any distractions, so eyes and mind can better focus on the food. That’s the point.
Service is extremely professional and attentive. And unlike most restaurants where each section is assigned a waiter, the experienced wait staff rotates serving the tables. Promptly helpful, pleasantly invisible.
The menu
COI offers 2 menus. At the lounge, an à la carte selection includes appetizers, salads and a few entrées. But the main attraction–the immersive 11-course menu, is reserved for the main dining room. Although items can be ordered individually, the $120 prix fixe meal is highly recommended. In 4 out 11 courses, you can choose between 2 options. The menu changes daily based on the chef’s famous perusing of local markets and relationships with top purveyors. A full page describes all ingredients and where they come from. Daily selections are visible on the restaurant’s facade, behind the glass window.
The meal
Every detail is carefully planed and meticulously executed. The 11-course meal is a playful exploration of flavors, aromas, textures and presentations.
All plates and bowls were created exclusively for the restaurant by a Japanese ceramicist. They are clean but rustic, highlighting the complexity of the food. Fresh flatware is set before every dish, teasing your mind for what’s to come.
Water is carbonated in house, served in small glass pitchers. Bread is individually baked, accompanied by butter and fleur de sel.
The following dishes are presented in the order they were served, including an amuse bouche and a palate cleanser.
To start, a delicate spherification of milk and honey. A subtle amuse bouche that hints the creativity that is to follow.
First, PINK GRAPEFRUIT, ginger, tarragon, black pepper. An inventive preparation of grapefruit reinterpreted as a dual-layer foam that resembles a poached egg in appearance and a delicate airy sorbet in texture.
Presented with a drop of scented oil reproducing the same exact aromas found in the dish. You are instructed to rub the oil on your hand, pairing aroma and flavor in a harmonious sensorial experience.
Second, CHILLED SPICED YELLOW SQUASH SOUP, vadouvan, nasturtium. The silky, creamy soup resembles the texture of light custard. Vadouvan (a fermented Indian curry-based spice) adds a nice kick while the slightly peppery nasturtium flowers bring in color and texture.
Third, CHERRY AND EARLY GIRL TOMATO PARFAIT, mcevoy olive oil, spicy bush basil, fromage blanc finger sandwich. A surprisingly flavorful tomato dish prepared with blanched cherry tomatoes immersed in a lightly gelatinous chilled tomato consommé made with agar agar. Fresh, brisk, absolutely amazing.
Forth, GAZPACHO, SOLID FORM, Mediterranean cucumber, piquillo pepper almond, mint. An interesting reinterpretation of the classic Spanish soup. According to our waiter, introduced to the menu for the first time that night. Presented as a gelatin wrapped, squid-ink stained tube over a shallow tomato soup base.
Fifth, CHANTENAY CARROT AND ARTICHOKE BRAISED IN OUR BUTTER, green cardamom, cilantro. Delightfully tender and flavorful vegetables served over a velvety carrot puree.
Sixth, HODO SOY YUBA-SPINACH RAVIOLO turnip, purslane. “A raviolo with no pasta”, announced our waiter. Instead, delicate paper-thin tofu conceals a spiced tofu spinach filling.
Sixth–second option, MONTEREY ABALONE AND FRESH SEAWEEDS mushroom dashi noodles, lime zest. A warm, Japanese-inspired salad of mollusk and seaweed, both harvested from the Monterey bay. Delicate and tasty.
Seventh, BUTTER-STEAMED WILD BLACK COD, beet-red flame grape emulsion, wild anise flowers, sorrel. Impossibly moist and tender, the fish is served over a delicious beet and grape sauce. Another beautiful dish in which each ingredient complements each other bringing contrast and enhancing flavors.
Eighth, PRATHER RANCH PORK BELLY, fresh pole and shelling beans, cipollini onions, smoked paprika. Tender thick slices of pork belly from the chefs-coveted California meat purveyor. Served over jus.
Eighth–second option, SLOW COOKED FARM EGG, roasted farro, gold chard, brown butter-parmesan sauce. In this dish, an egg is cooked for 45 minutes at the low temperature of 145ºF. The result is a perfectly cooked egg. The sauce, topped with a delicate froth, is very flavorful. Even better than the pork belly.
Ninth, FIGARO (SOYOUNG SCANLAN) figs, peppercress, balsamico. Figaro is a delicate, creamy cheese made from half cow’s, half goat’s milk. It is wrapped in fig’s leaves, which gives it a fruity aroma. Due to its very small production, this cheese is really hard to find. One more reason COI’s cheese course is a really nice treat.
As a palate cleanser, pink apple sorbet with an aromatic rose geranium froth. A brisk intermission with perfect acidity and sweetness to set your senses for sweeter endings.
Tenth, SUMMER MELON SOUP citon, niabel grape, white chocolate. The first dessert is a refreshing, sweet surprise. A silky melon soup is poured over fresh summer fruits dusted with rich white chocolate.
Eleventh, MICHEL CLUIZEL "CONCEPCION" GANACHE seascape strawberries, cocoa nib, violet ice cream. Michel Cluizel is a chocolate purist. In the business since 1948, one of the last independent cocoa artisans creates in France some of the most sought-after chocolates in the world. His chocolate ganache is thick and creamy; glossy to the eye and absolutely luscious in taste. Paired with marinated strawberries and a delicate violet ice cream, this is a great way to end a meal.
To finish, a shot of vanilla milkshake with mcevoy olive oil, served with a warm strawberry financier.
In short
For fine dining enthusiasts, this is an amusement park for taste buds. A temple for the epicure. The 11-course dinner is a great opportunity to experiment and appreciate the sophisticated combination of flavors, aromas and textures of Daniel Patterson’s inventive cuisine. And as in any multi-sensorial experience, it is better enjoyed without distractions. If you are looking for a lively social event, this may not be the place for it. Anything less than your full attention would be like going to a symphony and talking over the entire performance. Embrace the experience. Let yourself in the hands of the talented chef. This is one of San Francisco’s best restaurants after all.
COI is at 373 Broadway
Online reservations
COI, San Francisco
Town, New York (Closed)
We had just sat down at our table. As I pulled out my camera to photograph the menu, the bright dining room lights were quickly dimmed down to candle-lit intensity. Blogger alert! Proper photography was suddenly out of the question. The simple task of reading the menu proved challenging –our waiter extended her flashlight. So in view of the unforeseen censorship, all I can offer are illustrative reenactments of the experience. Questionably accurate provided my faint visual memory.
Town is technically a hotel restaurant, but it hardly feels that way. Located inside the Chambers in midtown Manhattan, its concealed design provides for a nice sense of exclusivity. The private entrance leads to a small bar; behind it, a suspended walnut staircase shows the way to the downstairs dining room. Despite the impressive high-ceilings, floor space is tight. And in good discount airlines fashion, it was designed to include the maximum number of seats.
This floor design yields a curious side effect. The sharply dressed wait staff has to stand on the outskirts of the room, waiting for a reason to contend with the winding spaces between tables. The strange lineup resembles a military formation, off-putting to say the least. Eat your broccoli!
All in all, Town provides attentive service in an elegant atmosphere; for the most part. Our dinner was peppered with a few mishaps not expected for a high-end restaurant. Menus forgotten on the table, dishes presented with inelegance and tap water poured after we had ordered sparkling.
The menu (or what I could barely see of it)
The restaurant has a good selection of what it calls Dynamic American Cuisine. Despite the minimalist descriptions, the menu is inventive and appetizing, the type that makes you want to try a few different things. Nothing is highlighted but the restaurant has a few declared signature dishes listed on their website.
The meal
Three varieties of bread are served promptly after ordering. The individually baked mini rolls include brioche and Jalapeño / Cheese.
To start, an amuse bouche of Almond gazpacho with chorizo oil and baby cilantro. The taste is bland but not bad. It’s in the presentation though that the concept falls apart. The soup is served in a plastic glass shot that makes it feel instantly cheap. Hasbro tea party cheap.
As an appetizer, the Foie gras terrine / picked cherry / cherry syrup / chocolate salt sounded like a good choice. The minimalist presentation is appetizing and the foie gras is lusciously creamy, despite a few unexpected tough veins I had to go through. On the side, the accompanying toasts lacked crunchiness.
The Risotto of escargots / sweet garlic / black truffles is one of the restaurants signature dishes. Served in a generous portion, the dish is finished at the table with the snails poured over the rice. Granted ours was vigorously scooped by a not so graceful food runner.
For main course, a good surprise was the Lobster wrapped monkfish / smoked corn puree / chanterelle. A beautiful combination of flavors accentuated by the sweet corn puree and buttery sauce. Perfectly cooked and artfully finished with a saffron-color foam.
For the final course, the restaurant offers 4 categories with a few choices under each. They include cheeses with accoutrements, ice creams and sorbets, tarts and chocolate desserts.
Our waitress suggested the Vanilla and chocolate beignets. They were delicious. Served warm, dusted with sugar, crispy on the outside and deliciously creamy inside. Each fritter is actually filled with vanilla or chocolate cream. So far, NYC’s best beignet.
In short
The privacy of the lower level dining room is somewhat compromised by the overly tight table arrangement. Service is professional but feels out of synch at times. All is worth overlooking for a taste of Geoffrey Zakarian’s inventive and sophisticated cuisine. You won’t forget the food. Even under dim light.
Town closed in April 2009.
It was located at 15 West 56th Street, NY
Canteen, San Francisco
You may wonder if you’re in the right place as you enter the tiny diner adjacent to the anachronistic Commodore Hotel. I certainly did. Somehow, that was not what I had imagined for the celebrated Dennis Leary restaurant. So I decided to abandon my preconceptions and put my name on the list for Sunday brunch (for a dinner review, click here)
You’ll rarely find open tables at Canteen as the dining room has only 4 small booths. Seven people can sit at the green Formica counter facing the busy stainless-steel kitchen. The space is tight, and every available nook is appropriately taken advantage of. The staff of 5 maneuvers with precision cooking and serving their customers, most local habitués. Even though Leary was absent from the kitchen in my 2 morning visits, his well-trained lieutenants seemed to be in perfect control.
The atmosphere is unfussy and the décor tries hard to give the small space a quirky personality. Around the room, a vintage books library, random antiques and office furniture used to store silverware. A classic American diner turned cabinet of curiosities.
The menu
The photocopied menu features an appetizing selection of egg dishes and griddled sweets. Some of the items change every weekend. Portions are not too big and everything is prepared with a great deal of care and talent. My only complaint is the lack of pastries and side dishes. They will prepare you eggs on the site if you ask, but unlike Prune or Maverick, there are no Merveilles or Doughnut holes to complement your meal.
The meal
Everything I tried was tasty and perfectly cooked, nothing sloppy or gratuitous on the plate.
The Benedict with all the accoutrements is luscious and flavorful. A light and airy hollandaise sauce, perfectly cooked eggs and crunchy English muffins make this a delicious brunch dish.
Another good option is the Steak and eggs, roasted sirloin, spud, spicy hollandaise. The medium-rare meat is very tender, the potatoes are tasty and the sauce brings a nice kick to the dish.
On the sweeter side, try the Blueberry French toast with sweet cream cheese. Unlike some French toasts that shamelessly rely on maple syrup for moisture, this one is prepared like a true pain perdu; creamy inside and crispy outside. Served with a generous portion of fresh blueberries and cream.
Although all brunch dishes are thoughtfully conceived and carefully prepared, drinks lack the same attention. Coffee from Mr. Espresso is brewed on the bitter side and orange juice comes from a supermarket container.
In short
Canteen offers some of the best brunch dishes in the city. Served by a friendly staff in a quirky diner atmosphere. The celebrated tiny restaurant by chef Dennis Leary is worth going, even in the morning when he’s not running the show. Makes me wonder how good dinner should be.
Canteen is at 817 Sutter St.
Reservations by phone 415-928-8870
Entremet: Why so boring?
You may have read my frequent criticisms San Francisco’s dining scene. Point is, I think the Bay Area has some of the best restaurants in the world. Period. But while all the focus seems to go on the food and service, the architecture and design are, simply put, boring. I can’t help but wonder why.
Let’s look at retail spaces for a minute. Like the new Prada store in Union Square, finally open after 10 years of deliberation. The original plan to build a 10-story structure designed by renowned architect Rem Koolhaas never left the blueprint. And after all the anticipation, all we got was an unremarkable business office storefront as inventive as the late Sharper Image down the block. And this is Prada we are talking about; the brand that redefined retail experiences first with its NYC SoHo store (designed by Koolhaas and IDEO). Then Los Angeles got its fair share of Prada’s modern architecture with Koolhaas’ Rodeo Drive epicenter. Not to mention Tokyo’s jaw-dropping Prada cathedral designed by Herzog & De Meuron.
So why do most of our restaurants (and our Prada store) have the aesthetic originality of a shoebox? Why can’t we find inspiring designs like NYC’s Lever House and Brasserie in San Francisco?
You can blame the city’s laid-back style, our intransigent building codes or simply the local cost of business. The fact is, in America’s most forward-thinking city, when it comes to restaurant design, our heads are well buried in the sand.
Town Hall, San Francisco
On any given night, the old 1907 warehouse building stands proud amidst modern SoMa skyscrapers and empty parking lots. But despite the deserted surroundings, inside, the feeling is anything but inhospitable.
Town Hall was opened in 2003 as the brainchild of Doug Washington and chefs/brothers Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal. The successful partnership later produced two more restaurants; Salt House and Anchor & Hope. But most importantly, five years later, Town Hall remains as good as it has ever been.
The interior design brings together the warmth of a southern home with unpretentious contemporary elegance. Classic white wainscoting, exposed brick walls and seismic metal beams surround an ample yet charming dining room filled with arts and crafts tables and chairs. Hanging from the high-ceilings, five tentacled chandeliers, each with 74 curved metal arms cast a warm, soft light in the room. The atmosphere is welcoming and honest, not staged.
Service is always efficient. But this is no surprise; Town Hall is all about consistency. It’s a place you go once and come back many times guaranteed to leave satisfied. You’ll always eat well and, most likely, eat a lot.
The menu
The ever-changing menu offers a modern twist on classic American dishes, some with a New Orleans flair. All served in generous portions, with no economy of flavors. Together, there are about 26 appetizing starters, main courses and sides to choose from. But whatever you pick, remember to save some room for dessert.
The meal
I’ve been to Town Hall about a dozen times. Sometimes to try new things, sometimes craving more of the same. Not once have I had a less than excellent meal.
Dinner begins with crunchy slices of bread and salted butter. Two of my favorite starters are the Tuna tartare, fried green tomatoes, garlic chips and Tabasco green onion vinaigrette; and Roasted veal meatballs, potato puree and green peppercorn sauce–which makes a great main course as well.
Now in season, and worth trying out, is the Crispy soft-shell crab B.L.T., bacon, butter lettuce and Heirloom tomato on toasted levain. A mouth-watering open-faced BLT in which the bacon is wrapped around the juicy, tender crab. Served with a light aioli over a crunchy slice of bread.
Another good call is the Faith’s warm ham and cheese toast, poached egg and jalapeño cream. This spicy cousin of the croque madame is surprisingly flavorful. A perfect balance of creamy cheese and jalapeño heat.
Main courses are very filling. Like the Grilled Niman Ranch pork chop, creamy tasso grits, pea tendrils, and caramelized peaches. The beautifully grilled, tender meat is served over tasty grits and summer peaches in a well-balanced combination that leans on the sweeter side. Unfortunately, the pea tendrils greens are a bit tough to chew. Even so, this is a much tastier pork dish than Spork’s.
Another great choice is the Roasted Wolf Ranch quail, chorizo, manila clams, smashed purple potatoes and lemon parsley glaze. An inventive contrast of flavors that despite its different origins, begs to be savored together. The bold chorizo taste and the sweetness of the clams are a great complement to the tender, juicy quail. The dish is finished with a delicious buttery glaze.
Other menu favorites are the Buttermilk fried chicken, country biscuits, creamed corn and bacon gravy; and the Seared scallops over spicy jambalaya, currently not on the menu.
Town Hall serves some of the best desserts in the city. My favorite is the Butterscotch and chocolate pot the crème topped with butter crunch. Most likely the best pot de crème you’ll ever have. Layered with creamy butterscotch on top, and rich chocolate underneath. Served in a generous portion, enough to share. Not that you’ll ever think about it.
Now in season is the Catalina plum fritters, smoked maple ice cream, bacon-infused caramel sauce. A crispy and creamy dessert, served warm, not too sweet.
Also to die for is the Sticky toffee cake, vanilla ice cream and toffee sauce. Although it requires a very sweet tooth, this one is hard to resist. Truth is, you really can’t go wrong with any dessert. Even if you feel you don’t have any room for it. Trust me, you will find some.
In short
Town Hall is comfort food at its best. Inventive preparations of American classics, created with sophistication but never shy in flavors. One of the best restaurants in San Francisco consistently delivers without disappointing. Go once and you’ll most likely come back many times, to try something new or find comfort on more of the same. Even with the generous portions, no food will be left on the plate.
Town Hall is at 342 Howard St.
Online reservations
Raviolo di ricotta at 
