Everything is social about this Mission district restaurant. There are a few regular 2 and 4 tops but most of the seating is around a long communal table that takes about 18 diners on bar stools. The long bar sits another 18 yet many more stand around it. Even high-tables entice social interactions by putting diners at eye level with passersby. No reservations are taken. Seats are assigned only by serendipity.
The ambiance is rustic yet contemporary. Original hardwood floors and vintage ceiling tiles share the space with modern aluminum chairs and stark wenge-stained tables. But must importantly, the lively vibe makes the lofty space unfussy and inviting. Bringing together the energy (and loudness) of a NYC happy hour with the typical laid-back fashion of the San Francisco crowd.
The menu
Like the ambiance, the menu is perfect for social dining. Mostly made of appetizers and small plates, everything begs to be tried and shared. There are about 30 items that change with the season; including several antipasti, charcuterie plates, risottos and salads. Another option (a very popular one) is the specialty pizzette, medium in size, perfect for sharing. But this is no ordinary pizza, there are 12 inventive choices like Margherita with burrata and Potato, rosemary, radicchio & gorgonzola piccante. Finally, each day one special entrée complements the menu, perhaps something for those with a greedy appetite, who prefer not to share.
The meal
Tapa bars have become increasingly popular in the United States. Unfortunately, the understated food often disappoints with understated taste. Not at Beretta. Here, each small plate is carefully conceived and prepared in bite-sized flavorful dishes that leave you yearning for an extra bite; in a good way.
The Bruschette of fava bean & pecorino is a great example. A simple antipasti that combines the flavors of its ingredients in a beautiful way. The delicate pureed fava beans is accentuated with olive oil and the saltiness of the pecorino cheese. Served over a crunchy slice of lightly toasted bread.
The Chicken liver crostini alla Toscana is also very good. Unlike the classic French preparation–smooth, almost mousse-like, this Tuscan version is lumpy and stronger in flavor.
In the fish antipasti category, try the Baccala with grilled polenta. Beretta’s preparation of salted cod served with olive oil and black olives is good, although milder than the traditional Portuguese bacalhau.
Another good choice, this one stronger in taste, is the Monterey sardines en saör. A classic Venetian dish in which fresh sardines are served with onions and red peppers, accentuated with the bright acidity of vinegar.
The Squid ink risotto with calamari is also really good. Rich and flavorful, with a generous portion of calamari and the welcoming contrast of lemon and parsley pesto. Like the other dishes, served as a small plate.
The Gnocchi, fresh porcini mushrooms & guanciale is great. The sautéed dumplings are complemented by the nuttiness of fresh porcini and saltiness of guanciale, a cured meat made of pig jolt.
And finally, the specialty pizzette. Appetizing toppings like Baccala’, potato, panna, onions & capers are served over a crispy thin crust. Delicious. No wonder they are so popular; with both happy-hourers and families with small kids that crowd the restaurant on early evening Sundays. Our pizza took a good 20 minutes to come after we had finished appetizers, but it was worth it.
The sweets menu consists mostly of house-made gelati and sorbetti desserts. One of them is based on the French-invented Baba au rhum; baba al rum with panna gelato. The rum-soaked cake is served topped with a scoop of gelato and orange zest. Much better than Salt House’s version.
Another tasty option is the Bonet-chocolate gelato with amaretti & caramel. The good quality chocolate gelato is pleasantly rich, almost pudding-like. Served over a light caramel sauce and topped with biscotti crumbs.
In short
Beretta is a Mecca for casual foodies and social butterflies. It's the type of place you go once and quickly become an habitué. In the era or gastropubs, this unpretentious modern Italian eatery (a gastrocellar, if you will) takes it up a notch. And proves that comfort food can be as comforting in small plates and sophisticated at honest prices.
Beretta is at 1199 valencia street
Reservations are taken by phone or email for 6 or more (415 695 1199).
Beretta, San Francisco
Bar Milano, New York
While it’s hard to beat the inventiveness and quality of the food in San Francisco, the Bay Area stands far behind New York when it comes to ambience. Restaurants like Lever House, Brasserie and Bar Milano offer patrons a dining experience that goes way beyond the food. Visit any of these places and you’ll find bold, innovative interior designs that are hard to overlook.
Bar Milano, the latest venue by the people who brought you ‘Ino and ‘Inoteca, is a feast for the eyes. In the beautifully designed space, a not so diverse good-looking crowd bring in a lively vibe worthy of a Sex and the city episode.
The bar seats 26 but many more stand for their chance to see and be seen. The ambience is a tasteful mix of an anachronistic Venetian bar (think Harry’s, the official birthplace of the Bellini) with Blade Runner mystique. Warm redwood panels are contrasted with a carefully designed tube light pattern that extends the perception of space beyond the glass walls onto the busy street.
In the 60-people dining room, one wall features a wall to ceiling wine cabinet while the other displays a vertical mosaic of marble panels. Arranged in non-symmetrical stripes of contrasting tones, the marble wall gives the room an original, modern feel. On both ends of the hangar-shaped room, white sheer curtains provide intimacy while increasing the sense of space (behind one curtain is a full-wall mirror).
The tables are made of simple solid wood tops over elegant cast-iron claw feet. Leather-covered molded-plywood chairs and a soft grey banquette offer comfortable seating for all fashion-conscious guests.
The menu
The restaurant serves northern Italian fare, à la carte and in an eight-course tasting menu. Despite my strong desire to order the chef’s menu, the individual appetizers, pastas and main courses sounded more interesting.
In many French restaurants, the tasting menu leaves diners completely in the hands of the chef. They are called Menu confiance. No descriptions are provided, every dish is a surprise. In the US, as food intolerances change faster than fashion, descriptions are hardly an option. Point is, if you describe it, better make it appetizing. Bar Milano follows the trend that perhaps less explanation yields more surprise. Ingredients are listed with no romance, just the facts. Like a drug label, alerting patients for possible allergies. Hardly appetizing.
The meal
Dinner started with a selection of breads. Overall, they were tasty but felt somewhat old in texture. A day old perhaps.
Among the appetizers, one of the most intriguing is the Timballo di Quaglia –Quail, Foie Gras. That’s what I ordered. The dish came to the table almost too quickly. And despite the bland description, the plate included a complex presentation of ingredients that our waitress didn’t seem to deem worthy of an explanation. When I asked her what I was eating, she described it in great detail, somewhat surprised and proud, as if I was the first person to ever ask. Maybe I was.
So this is how it goes. The quail meat is cooked, pureed then molded as a cylinder. Its center is then removed to give place to the foie gras. After chilled, the timbale is sliced and served with three compotes. Grapefruit, rose petails and pink peppercorns; black cherry and vinegar; and caramelized shallots. Unfortunately, the dish didn’t quite live up to its long explanation. The quail had an unpleasant grainy texture that overshadowed its bland taste. And even with the good compotes, the grilled slices of panini that accompanied the dish were way too hard.
I shared an order of the Cuscini all’ Osso Buco – Braised Veal Stuffed Pasta. This is a good dish, simple and tasty. The pasta is served al dente with a flavorful veal reduction sauce and dusted with crunchy breadcrumbs.
As a main course, I ordered the Anatra con Lenticchie – Duck Breast, Duck Sansage, Rhubarb, Lentils. When the dish arrived, I noticed the meat looked unusually red. But in good faith, I tried it. Indeed, my suspicion was right. I called the waitress and asked her if that was how the chef wanted the meat prepared. “Yes, medium rare”, she replied. It tasted pretty rare to me but I told her that I would eat it that way. Truth is, the duck was undercooked. To the point of tasting raw – which unlike fish and beef, doesn’t taste good in poultry. The sausage that came with it was soft and bland; everything else was good at best.
I also tried the Tonno e Vitello – Grilled Tuna, Veal Breast, Artichokes. A strange combination that, unlike the classic Italian dish Pollo al tono, doesn’t quite work as well. Moreover, the tuna and the artichokes were tougher than I’d expect.
Dessert to the rescue. There’s a good selection of appetizing desserts on the menu. I ordered the Stracciatella Parfait – Chocolate Ganache, Goat’s Milk, Chocolate Cones. The also mysteriously described dessert was actually very good. The rich ganache was sandwiched between thin layers of good quality chocolate and the goat milk was actually goat milk ice cream (but someone probably thought it was clever to omit that from the description).
Something worth noting is the restaurant’s sparkling water. In the era of $14 bottles of water, Bar Milano carbonates their own and serve it in glass pitchers for the surprisingly low cost of two bucks.
In short
Bar Milano’s beautiful ambiance is another example of a modern, innovative New York restaurant design. Crowded with beautiful people, some say this is the place to be. But if dining well is what you have in mind, this may not be where you’ll want to eat. In the place to see and be seen, it’s no wonder few eyes are on the food.
Bar Milano is at 323 Third Avenue, NYC
Online reservations
Mission Beach Cafe, San Francisco
I could tell something was off the moment we walked into Mission Beach Cafe for a Sunday brunch. The following is an account of a series of unfortunate events.
After reading about its award for Best brunch in San Francisco 7x7 magazine, I called the restaurant to get a table for the next day. The attendant responded that although they didn’t take brunch reservations, I could show up at 11, when they started serving food. Before that, according to him, it was only coffee and pastries. In an attempt to beat the crowds (I don’t know how many people read 7x7), I decided to arrive some time in advance.
The small dining room was already full when we got there at 10:30am. And, to my surprise, diners seemed to be already halfway through their meals. What happened to start serving food at 11am?
Only one small table was open, by the entrance, next to the sugar and cream counter. Better than nothing.
Three people buzzed around the tables taking orders, serving customers, busing dishes and coordinating the kitchen; all at once. They acted bewildered, like ants that had lost their lead. Or, as I later learned, like waiters that had lost their cook. Despite my constant attempts to get the wait staff’s attention, it took about six minutes for someone to show up.
When I asked for the menu, the waiter responded “No menu, just here”, pointing to his forehead. He then recited the only four options available; all egg dishes. After we placed our order, a stack of pancakes passed by. Wait, why wasn’t that an option before? A minute later, another waiter showed up panting to take our order again. Thirty-five minutes passed before our food arrived. By then, the coffee (brewed extremely strong that day) had turned lukewarm.
The service nightmare was so bad it barely let us enjoy our food. Truth is, my eggs benedict was actually great. Maybe even worthy of a second chance. When we were leaving the restaurant, one of the owners offered his sincere apology. Things were clearly abnormal that day.
Let’s try this again
(Readers may disregard all previous statements.)
Located at the corner of Guerrero and 14th street, Mission Bay Cafe’s all-glass façade is an invitation to step in. Inside though, the bright dining room feels almost too modern for a neighborhood eatery. Solid wood tables and slim chairs upholstered in sand-colored suede fill the white-walled space. Large framed photographs of a rusted ironworks warehouse contribute to the aloof appearance. Outside, a crowd of habitués waits patiently for a table. A good selection of freshly baked pastries offers those who can’t wait, the opportunity to take breakfast to go.
When we arrived at 10:15am, all tables for two were already taken but a few four tops remained open. The waiter told us we could sit but he would have to move us to the counter if a larger party arrived. Despite the unexpected comment, service was considerably better the second time around.
The menu
The brunch menu (as it happens they do have a menu) has a very appetizing selection of egg dishes, sandwiches, sides and sweets. The type that makes you want to try a few different things. A couple of specials were added by our waiter, enthusiastically described as the contributions from the newly hired chef.
The meal
Compared to most dinner menus, brunch is usually a much simpler fare. However, many restaurants sin by not giving it the proper attention. The result is often disappointing or simply unremarkable (Chez Papa Resto). In my two visits to Mission Beach Cafe, the food was impeccable. Thoughtfully conceived and perfectly prepared. With a similar level of care and talent found at NYC’s Prune.
One of the best dishes on the menu is the Dungeness crab benedict, house made garlic English muffin, avocado, poached egg, lemon hollandaise. In this refreshing variation of the classic, the lush hollandaise is contrasted by the brightness of the lemon and guacamole. Despite the unappealing black plate presentation, everything was tasty and perfectly cooked.
The Scramble of the day was made with shitake and crimini mushrooms, goat cheese and served with the restaurant’s signature potatoes. It’s not often you eat perfectly cooked scrambled eggs in a restaurant, it’s usually either too runny or too dry. But this one was flawless. Soft and moist, mixed with a generous portion of also perfectly cooked mushrooms and finely chopped parsley. There was a bit too much goat cheese but besides that, it’s a very tasty dish.
A more hearty option is the House made empanada of the day, 2 fried eggs, MBC potatoes. Filled with ground beef & spinach when I tried it, and wrapped on flaky golden brown pastry, the empanadas are very filling and flavorful.
Coffee is from Blue Bottle, my favorite for its taste and consistency in the preparation (Blue Bottle trained baristas are serious about their craft). Individually dripped and skillfully prepared cappuccinos and lates are available. Unlike in the first visit, brewing was great the second time around.
In short
Like Maverick, Mission Beach Café offers an inventive take on the traditional brunch fare. The food is flavorful and flawlessly prepared. The coffee is from Blue Bottle, quite simply the best you can get. In San Francisco, this is a hard brunch to beat. So much so that you may even overlook a few service mishaps.
Mission Beach Cafe is at 198 Guerrero St.
Online reservations
LaSalette, Sonoma
Dining at LaSalette starts with a series of paradoxical events. In the heard of Sonoma, right off the picturesque town square, is a small alley that doesn’t quite fit in. On both sides, a handful of questionably fashion stores scream silently “Everything must go!” At the end of the pathway, as you leave the strip mall behind, you’ll find the charming Portuguese restaurant.
A plant-covered patio shelters outside diners from the surrounding touristy fuss. Inside, hand painted Portuguese pottery, terracotta walls and tables made from old wine boxes furnish the quaint dining room. But the paradox goes on. Look closely and you’ll find yourself sandwiched between bland white ceramic floor tiles and office ceiling panels that may be forgivable under the evening light but are too obvious at lunchtime.
On the tables, menus are presented wrapped by white linen napkins. Unlike Bouchon’s elegant execution though, this one resembles something you’d find hanging on your house’s doorknob. Free delivery!
But don’t let appearances deceive you. Make an effort and ignore the questionable surroundings, half-baked ambience, touristy crowd and average service. The magic here happens at the back of the house.
Running the small open kitchen, with the focus and confidence of a skilled surgeon is chef/owner Manuel Azevedo. Along his side, a couple of cooks work in perfect synergy and at incredible speed in the narrow space between a long mis en place and the broiling-hot wood-burning oven.
Watching they work is fascinating. And not many restaurants give you the opportunity to see it so close. If that’s something you enjoy, the very end of the dining counter offers the best seats in the house. It’s like eating in the kitchen (or at the chef’s table). But beware, the oven is hot.
The menu
Once you get over the direct-marketing look, the menu is very appetizing. A mix of traditional Portuguese dishes with revisited classics. I’ve been to LaSalette two times. In my first visit, I tried a few different appetizers you can order as part of the Cheese and charcuterie plate. The selection includes hard-to-find Portuguese cheeses like Serra da Estrela and Queijo do topo as well as great sausages.
The rest of the menu is divided in small courses (large appetizers) and main courses (which are also generous in size). Somewhat out of place are a few sandwiches like burger and BLT, a clear sign that the Portuguese fare may not please the most conservative palate.
The meal
Most of the food at the restaurant is cooked in the hot wood-burning oven and sometimes finished in the regular oven.
The meal starts with Queijo do Topo with herbs over olive oil toasted bread. The quarter-sized amuse bouche is surprisingly flavorful thanks to the pungent cheese. A great start that leaves you wanting more.
The Sardinhas Assadas (baked sardines) is one of the restaurant’s most popular items. They are flash-baked, which crisps the skin while keeping the moisture of the fish inside. Served with caramelized onions, black olives, hard-boiled eggs and red wine vinegar. Although this is a very good appetizer, the large portion size will wear off the novelty of the flavors midway through the dish. I would recommend it to share.
For an authentic Portuguese entrée, order the Bacalhau. A traditional baked casserole of salt cod, potatoes, caramelized onions and olives; served with olive oil and hard-boiled eggs. Although not very common in the United States, salt cod is a popular ingredient in Europe and Brazil. The 500-year-old preservation method consists or salting and drying the filets, which gives them a shelf life of several months or years. To prepare it, the cod is soaked in water overnight so it can absorb back moisture and release the excess salt. The result is a strong flavored flaky fish that resembles lump crabmeat in texture. LaSalette’s Bacalhau is very good. A treat for your palate. But this is no light entrée. The layered cake-shaped dish is rich and filling.
Another signature dish is the Cataplana de marisco. A seafood and white bean stew served in a spherical copper bowl. Shrimp, mussels, clams and calamari are cooked in a flavorful fish broth, a lighter version of the French Bouillabaisse. The Cataplana is good but not remarkable. The presentation is more interesting than the actual dish. If you like seafood, I’d recommend the Fillette do dia, Sardinhas Assadas or Bacalhau that take advantage of the flash-baking preparation.
There is a good selection of Portuguese desserts on the menu. The chef’s specialty is the Arroz doce, described as Azevedos special recipe for Portuguese rice pudding. This is a great dessert, although calling it a rice pudding is an understatement. The sweet rice is served warm accompanied by a light caramel sauce, dried figs and drizzled with cinnamon. Very tasty and not too sweet.
Unfortunately, the espresso is a miss. Poured too long.
In short
The atmosphere at LaSalette is a paradoxical mix of charm and lack thereof. But this provincial eatery shouldn’t be judged as much for its ambience. It’s all about the food. There aren’t many Portuguese restaurants in the United States and this one offers an authentic and flavorful fare that’s worth the trip. But come hungry, or bring someone to share, Portuguese like to eat well. No paradox there.
LaSalette is at 452 First Street East, Suite H, Sonoma, CA
Online Reservations
Spruce, San Francisco
Try to make a reservation at Spruce and you’ll quickly find out that’s not something easy to get. Try for several weeks ahead and you may score a bookend slot, 5:30 or 9:30pm. Sorry, nothing in between.
In normal circumstances, I wouldn’t take either time. Except, this is Spruce, one of the most talked about restaurants in the city. The place all foodies say they want to try but it’s so hard to get in. I didn’t think twice.
Located in the coveted Presidio Heights neighborhood, Spruce’s façade is framed by a lineup of trees. Inside, as you walk towards the restaurant, a small café serving paninis, sweets and cheese is the first thing to temp your appetite.
Walk in and you’ll find a tastefully designed interior, carefully planned and put together in every detail. A glass wall divides the high-ceilings space between the well-stocked bar and a 70-people dining room. Above all, a long skylight floods the whole area with natural light.
Chocolate mohair walls feature oversized 1940s body paintings (think Big Lebowski) by Japanese artist Shiraga. On the other side of the room hangs the artwork of a less known artist called Bard, a Frenchman allegedly found by one of the owners working around Parisian food stalls. Bard’s charcoal drawings are very impressive, beautiful photorealistic renditions of contemporary slices of life. The story goes that after the press picked up on his work featured at Spruce, he was never again to be found.
Spruce’s dining room is a rare kind of casual posh. Well-spaced tables, faux ostrich leather chairs and welcoming sofa booths give the space a well-balanced mix of contemporary elegance and comfort. The kind of place you could (and probably will) spend the whole evening.
Service is graceful and well trained. Dishes are placed on the table in a well-rehearsed choreography that will take as many waiters as necessary to serve all guests in perfect synchrony. Our waiter was confident and eloquent in talking about the food and answering random questions we had about the place.
The menu
Above all, Spruce’s claim to fame lies on the food. Chef/Partner Mark Sullivan’s interpretation of contemporary American cuisine is appetizing and inventive. The menu is created around fresh organic ingredients carefully managed by the chef. There are about 20 options to choose from between appetizers and entrées. Most of the restaurant’s produce comes from their own private farm.
The meal
In my first visit to Spruce I had the opportunity to try a few different things. Between the seven of us, we covered a good part of the menu.
Dinner started with a simple yet tasty amuse bouche; freshly baked Cheese puffs sent by the chef.
Appetizers arrived. As I tasted each dish, my overall impression was of a very light beginning.
My favorite appetizer was the house-cured Charcuterie selection. Spruce has an extensive charcuterie program and produces everything from “Prosciutto di San Francisco” to a variety of sausages including a high-end version of bologna. Our two plates included paper-thin slices of tongue, pig’s ear, garlic and duck sausage, paté de campagne and a delicious duck liver mousse covered with Madera gelée. The impeccable preparation and delicate presentation was enough to convert even the most skeptical diners. I, for one, had no problems jumping in.
I also liked the Caramelized dayboat scallops, salt cod brandade, sweet peas. The scallops were beautifully seared and paired well with their accompaniments.
The Hot and cold artichokes, rucola, parmesan was a good example of a very light appetizer. Perfectly prepared but subtle in flavors.
Another one was the Fresh farfalle, roasted asparagus, wild ramps and greens.
As a special treat, we ordered French fries, remoulade. We couldn’t resist after spotting them leave the kitchen next to a bar bound burger.
Everything was impeccably prepared and served in delicate portions. What could have been perceived as almost too subtle, was in fact a carefully planed warm-up for what was to come. Like as if stretching our palates for a marathon of flavors. Enter the entrées.
I ordered the Honey lacquered duck breast, cinnamon spiced foie gras, poached rhubarb. Of everything I tried, this was the most flavorful entrée. Each ingredient was perfectly prepared and well deserved of a starring role. Together, they complemented each other in an enviable harmony of textures and flavors. The poached rhubarb and radicchio brought a sweet and bitter contrast to the decadent combination of seared duck skin and foie gras.
A close second was the Charred Berkshire pork tenderloin, crispy pork belly and shelling beans. Tender and juicy, probably the most flavorful pork tenderloin I ever had.
Also worth noting was the Slow roasted shortrib, harvest greens and torpedo onions, horseradish. Like the other meats, this one was delightfully tasty.
A curious surprise was the Harissa chicken, farro couscous, dates almonds. I wouldn’t have thought of ordering the chicken until the waiter suggested it as his favorite on the menu. I’m glad one of us got it so I could understand why the recommendation. It was simply delicious.
Lastly, the Mediterranean branzino, crispy panisse and favas, preserved lemon vinaigrette. Although this is a good option for a lighter main course, I would strongly recommend one of the above meats, even for vegetarians.
Curiously, very little or no starch is used in the composition of the dishes. As if no flavor opportunity was ever lost to ingredients of less noble taste.
As we approached the end of dinner, the ambience had changed dramatically with the bright natural light giving place to a moody, dimly lit room. It was time for the final act. Dessert.
Once again, I had the chance to try many different things. Overall, all desserts were creatively conceived and beautifully presented.
The table’s favorite turned out to be the simplest one we ordered. Beignets, preserves, crème anglaise. Served warm, dipping sauces on the side. To die for.
The Cocoa nib dacquoise, manjari chocolate mousse, cocoa caramel is a chocolate’s lover dessert. Very rich yet not too sweet. Just right.
The Espresso cake, peanut ice cream, whipped caramel is also very good.
Some at our table were disappointed with Ezra’s carrot cake, ginger ice cream, walnut praline. That’s the risk of reinterpreting traditional comfort food. To me, it was a refreshing rendition of the classic.
Lastly, Spruce sundae, classic accompaniments. A DIY sundae that comes with great-quality chocolate and caramel sauces as well as toasted almonds.
It was about 9:30pm when we left our table. Just in time for the next party to be seated. There they were, exactly as I was, standing by the entrance, anxiously awaiting their chance to try Spruce. Even if that meant dining at 9:30pm.
In short
With less than a year, Spruce is already one the best restaurants in the bay area. The tastefully designed interior is a much-needed addition to the city’s dining scene. The food is respectful to the ingredients yet infused with great flavor. An orgy for your palate. No wonder is so hard to get in.
Spruce is at 3640 Sacramento St
Online Reservations
Raviolo di ricotta at 
