Anchor & Hope, San Francisco

Anchor & Hope is the latest offspring from the successful partnership of Doug Washington, Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal. First came Town Hall, one of my favorite restaurants in the city. Then Salt House, good but not as bright as the older sibling. Some say third is a charm.

Opened only a few weeks ago, the restaurant took over a turn of the century warehouse in a small alley in downtown San Francisco. Finding a spot is not a problem though, the building is right next to a large public parking complex.



The interior is simple. An open space between stained plywood floors and a beautiful A-frame ceiling with exposed weathered beams. The modernized fisherman’s shack makes for an interesting ambience but it is somewhat overdone reminding a bit too much of San Francisco’s own Disneyland: Fisherman’s Wharf. Hanging ropes and maritime paraphernalia feel staged and unnecessary. If you can ignore that, it’s a great space.



Service is attentive and genuinely friendly, no forced smiles. Our table was served by 2 waiters, one in training, silently and diligently following along.

The menu

As expected, the menu is almost entirely seafood. There are about 25 things to choose from including oysters, lobster, creative appetizers and a good variety of fish entrées. But in an effort to please the sea-averse crowd, a couple of meat options and one vegetarian dish are also available. I’d say if you are at sea, don’t order the steak.

The meal


Dinner started with a crunchy loaf of pain lepi delivered to the table in a branded paper bag, fleur de sel sprinkled butter on the side. As a proof of the attentive service, more butter was brought in the moment we ran out of it.



As an appetizer, we ordered the curiously named “Fries with eyes” Smelts & remoulade sauce. Crispy on the outside and surprisingly creamy inside. It was absolutely delicious. Almost dangerously addictive. A great starter for the table. Don’t leave without trying it.



As a main course, I had to try the Anchor & Hope lobster roll, old bay spiced kettle chips, sea salt. The lightly toasted roll came topped with a very generous portion of lobster meat, perfectly cooked and seasoned. But surprisingly, what stole everyone’s attention were the impossibly thin mondoline-sliced potato chips. So good, it seems like a missed opportunity that you can’t get them as a side order.



Another very tasty choice is the Sautéed black sea bass, cumin potatoes, ramps, country ham, early peaches, brown butter. The fish flavor is highlighted with an inventive combination of smokiness from the ham and buttery sweetness from the peaches.



But the best entrée I tried was the Coriander seared yellowfin tuna, fresh garbanzo humus, tomato vinaigrette, olive tapenade. Sushi-grade tuna is a broadly used term in restaurants and rarely lives up to its promise. This one was spectacular. Fresh and tender. As a whole, the dish was delicate yet complex in flavors. Each ingredient was interesting and sometimes surprising by itself but even better when combined together.

Dessert time. Once again, I had high expectations due to Town Hall’s claim to fame. But much like at Salt House, I was somewhat disappointed. There were only 3 choices which change every night – that’s not a bad thing. They were not listed on the menu but rather recited by the wait staff. A peach cobbler, an espresso food cake and a more interesting option called Crème de la cœur. That’s what I had.



A mixture of yogurt and whipped cream strained on a cheesecloth and served in the form of a heart with strawberries and shortbread cookies. Unfortunately, it was boring lacking complexity and enthusiasm.

In short

Anchor & Hope is a great fish house. Probably one of the best in the city. The food is Inventive and flavorful. Ambience, despite the somewhat staged feel, is casual and welcoming. Service is attentive. The third restaurant from the people that brought you Town Hall, to me, scores as number two.



Anchor & Hope is at 83 Minna Street
Online reservations

Bar Tartine, San Francisco

Watch carefully as you drive by as there are no signs on the understated façade. From the outside, it looks like any other Mission district storefront. But when you walk in, the interior may surprise you.

San Francisco is undoubtedly one of the top dining destinations in the country. Nowhere else can you find such an amazing myriad of restaurants offering inventive food made with the freshest ingredients. But all the focus on the food seems to blind some restaurateurs to another key part of the dining experience: the ambience. That’s what NY is really good at. There are very few restaurants in SF that you can say are original and memorable in their interior design. Delfina, Range and Town Hall offer among the best food in the city but there’s nothing unique about their atmosphere. And sometimes, when the focus shifts to the ambience, restaurants fail miserably in the food or service category (Orson, Local).



There’s nothing incredibly innovative about Bar Tartine’s interior design, but the care to details sets it apart from what’s around. The long dining room starts with a long communal table set under a large deer antlers wood chandelier. Solid wood tables and classic bistro chairs fill in the rustic wood floored space that is shared by a white marble countertop bar. At the very end, an open kitchen. From charming blown glass light fixtures to actually interesting art on the walls, everything feels carefully planned but not excessively designed. Modern and warm at the same time.

The only hint at a possible mishap is the eventual air circulator fan standing near the wall, a clear sign that the non-air-conditioned room may get a little too warm during the summer.

The hip and sometimes enthusiastic wait staff is attentive but looked overwhelmed as the house got full. The table next to mine had their order switched with someone else’s.



The menu

The menu offers about 15 options between appetizers, salads and entrées. Descriptions are appetizing and it’s not hard to find yourself torn between a few things you want to try. Sometimes though, the dishes sound better on paper.

The meal

Bread is a no brainer. This is Tartine after all. You won’t find better bread in the city and the restaurant seems to know that as the loafs are proudly displayed like trophies on a shelf.

As a starter, I ordered the Gorgonzola stuffed Medjool dates with aged balsamic. You can't tell what to expect just by looking at it. But it only takes one bite to realize it is way too sweet, I’d say even for a dessert. A strange palate curveball.

For appetizers, I tried the Crispy romaine lettuce wrapped Monterey Bay sardines, garlic puree, nosturtiums and parmesan tuile. Once again, the description and presentation outshined the actual dish. Despite the inventiveness, there was nothing surprising about the flavors. It wasn’t bad by any means but also wasn’t remarkable. Other appetizers ordered by the table next to mine looked equally disappointing when compared to their menu descriptions.



Entrées were another story. I had the Dayboat scallops with little gem lettuces, fava beans, onion soubise, chorizo and saffron broth. It was perfect. A creative balance of flavors, beautifully prepared with craft and care. The foamy broth was so good it gave sense to the spoon previously brought to the table.



The Foie gras stuffed quail with sweet peas, farro, trumpet mushrooms, and charred onion consommé was also delicious. Cooked perfectly, it was flavorful and tender. Like the scallops dish, its sauce was worthy of a spoon.



Desserts were somewhat of a let down. With Tartine’s unbeatable bakery background I was expecting to be blown away. I was not.

The Bittersweet chocolate tart earl grey ice cream, orange caramel was tasty but looked more like something pulled from a pâtisserie display than prepared by the restaurant’s chef pâtissière.

The same was true for the Cocoa nib panna cotta cherry gelèe, fresh cherries, chocolate tuile. Taste wise, this panna cotta was not bad but definitely not as good as Delfina’s.

The cheese selection is actually pretty good and includes Serra da Estrela, a delicious and hard-to-find Portuguese cheese made from raw sheep’s milk. Coffee is from Blue Bottle.

In short

Bar Tartine is a nice surprise in the mission district, more for its carefully designed ambiance than for its food. Although, despite appetizers and desserts being not so stellar, I would easily go back for any of the entrées.

Bar Tartine is at 561 Valencia Street
Online reservations

Range, San Francisco

It was only a few months ago that I visited Range for the first time. When I told people about my experience, the response was, almost unanimously: “Mmmm, I love Range”.

Behind the understated facade in the Mission district, hides what turned out to be one my favorite restaurants in San Francisco.

The interior design is simple but feels warm and contemporary. A long dining room sits about 70 people in 3 different spaces. At the bar, a beautiful antique blood bank refrigerator is used to chill wine bottles and martini glasses. Counter seats and high tables offer a perfect spot for cocktails and a buzzing dinner. If you’re looking for a more intimate setting though, just ask for a table towards the back of the room. While many restaurants try hard to be hip, Range is authentically and unpretentiously cool.



Service is, simply put, exceptional. The razor sharp staff has the timing and precision of a Russian ballet. Never late, never rushed, just perfect. From bartender to the busboy, everyone seems to operate with impeccable efficiency without losing the charm, even on the busiest nights. Very few places offer this level of service, Delfina is one of them, but Range is second to none.

The menu

There are only a dozen or so items on the menu, and that’s a good thing. Range is about thoughtfully created dishes, perfectly executed. No matter what you order, be sure it will be spot on. It is an inventive and honest celebration of flavors and ingredients. Worth trying many things.

The meal

I’ve been to Range 3 times before this review. Everything I tried was surprisingly good, even the simplest things.

My favorite appetizer is the Chicken liver mousse with mizuna salad. I had it the first time and couldn’t resist ordering ever since. The smooth, decadent mousse is deliciously rich and flavorful. So good in fact, I could have it for dessert. This is the kind of thing you fall in love with. Even if you think you don’t like chicken liver mousse.

Another great example of a simple dish exceptionally made is the braised leeks with poached egg, aged cheddar and breadcrumbs. Perfectly cooked with carefully balanced flavors and a pleasant contrast of acidity and richness.

In my last visit I had the opportunity to try the soft-shell crab. A big hit. The crispy yet tender crab was well combined with a refreshing watercress salad over a creamy bed of avocado mousse and crème fraîche.

Entrées are also thoughtfully conceived and flawlessly prepared. My all-time favorite was the Coffee rubbed slow braised pork shoulder. Sorry, no photos, but believe me when I say this was the most tender, flavorful pork I ever had. To die for. Unfortunately, it was not on the menu the last time I went.

Save some for the end, Range won’t let you down in the dessert department. Sweets seem to get the same attention given to the rest of the menu. One of the best is the Chocolate crêpes with ruby grapefruit and pink peppercorn ice cream. A great combination of flavors makes this dessert far from boring.

On the lighter side, try the refreshing Rhubarb strawberry chilled soup with buttermilk ice cream. A perfect ending to a fulfilling meal.


Also worth ordering is the delicious shortbread cookies with marinated cherries and house-made whipped cream.



In short

It’s not by chance this restaurant has received one Michelin star, the same rating given to prestigious Bouchon and Gary Danko. I can go on and on about the delightfully prepared food, the welcoming atmosphere and the impeccable service. But somehow, when people ask me, the first thing that comes to mind is: “Mmmm, I love Range”.

Range is at 842 Valencia Street
Online reservations

Kokkari, San Francisco

Despite the large space divided in 3 dining rooms, Kokkari manages to create an intimate dining experience. Mix and matched high-back upholstered armchairs are elegant and comfortable. High ceilings and well-spaced tables give diners a sense of privacy even when the house is full. A large fireplace doubles as rotisserie, proudly displaying the night’s roast. Everything works well together in a carefully planned mix of rustic and chic. But this sense of well-designed privacy can die out if your table is near the bar.

The well-stocked bar was buzzing with excitement as the preppy yuppie crowd stood waiting for their tables. The ones without reservation showed no restraint in harassing the hostess for their self appointed right to sit.

Even with the house full, service was sharp. Our waitress was friendly and well versed on the somewhat complex Greek menu. Her confident persona was only spoiled by the oversized patterned tie she wore. Definitely out.

The menu

The traditional and modernized Greek menu features mostly game and seafood, like Arnisia Paidakia and Thalasina Scharas Yia Dio. Okay, the names may not be easy to understand–or order, but you can count on descriptions that are clear and appetizing. In case of doubt, ask the wait staff. And don’t be shy, try different things. For the most part, you can’t go wrong.

The meal

A great way to start is to order a selection of Greek spreads with house-made grilled pita bread. I recommend the last 3 on the menu: Tzatziki, Tirosalata and Favosalata. The first is prepared with Kokkari’s rich and creamy house-made Greek yogurt, a must order. The second, a blend of feta cheese, poblano peppers and olive oil; good spicy flavor but a bit on the salty side. Lastly, chickpeas and olive oil in a light spread that resembles a dense aired foam, served with capers and red onion wedges.

Other good call is the Arnisia Plevrakia - grilled lamb riblets with lemon & oregano. A more refined version of burnt ends.

For main courses, the restaurant offers daily selections of whole fish, prepared grilled or wood-oven roasted. In my last visit I tried a Mediterranean red snapper roasted with oregano, olive oil, Greek olives and potatoes. The fish was perfectly cooked and flavorful. Served deboned, head and tail on, all optional. You can order the whole fish by itself (Psari Psito) or as part of the seafood grill for two, which also includes prawns and mussels (Thalasina Scharas Yia Dio). That’s what I had.

The long plate took all the space on our table. Despite the somewhat messy presentation in which the fish was buried by its accompaniments, it looked very appetizing. Unfortunately, prawns were slightly overcooked and mussels could have used some seasoning. I’d recommend ordering the whole fish only.

Another notable main course is the Kokinisto me Manestra. The cinnamon scented braised lamb shank with orzo and myzithra is very tender and flavorful. You’ll need Flintstones appetite though.

In all the times I’ve been to Kokkari, I always had the same dessert. Not that there aren’t other compelling options on the menu but since I had it for the first time, I craved it ever since. Yiaourti me Meli - Greek yogurt with spiced walnuts & dates drizzled with Marshall's honey.

I thought it was time to try something different so reluctantly I opted for the night’s special, Ravani. A honey soaked cake with marinated strawberries, Greek dessert wine and, house-made yogurt. It was disappointing. Apart from the welcoming dollop of yogurt, the rest of the dessert was boring. More small town diner than a fine dining.

In short

If you’ve never been, Kokkari is definitely worth the visit. For the atmosphere and for the food. Although most main courses come in generous portions I’d recommend trying a few appetizers as they are a great way to sample the different flavors of the chef’s Greek cuisine. But most importantly, don’t leave without trying the Greek yogurt dessert. That alone is a reason to come back.

Salt House, San Francisco

Salt House is all about the atmosphere. The rustic space in downtown San Francisco has beautiful high ceilings with exposed wood beams and giant postcard chandeliers. Solid wood tables, mix matched chairs and original hardwood floors make up the medium sized dining room. Metal pipe light fixtures, white marble countertop and exposed brick walls give the ambiance a pleasant mix of industrial and warm. Eight cooks squeeze in the open stainless steel kitchen. It feels busy, hip, contemporary, and so does the crowd.



People pile up at the bar, some for the food, most to be seen. The restaurant has a “secret” back door to a nightclub so it can serve as a good evening warm up. All the fuss makes for a pretty noisy room. Despite the intimate candle-lit atmosphere, it’s sometimes hard to carry a long conversation. The young staff is, for the most part, efficient and attentive.

It took a few minutes for someone to show up at our table after we sat down but after our order was taken, service ran like clockwork. Courses came in at a timely fashion, empty plates were promptly bused away, glasses were never left empty.

The menu

Our waiter was quick to say there were no specials but the selections changed every day, she pointed to the date stamp printed at the top of the menu. Appetizers and entrées, despite the dry descriptions, are inventive and appetizing. Like at Conduit, instead of romanticizing the dishes, only ingredients and preparations are listed, matter of factly.

The meal

A cracked loaf of pain lepi–a branched cousin of the baguette, was set on the table over a sheet of brown paper. Butter on the side. It looked good but, to my surprise, it was like day-old bread. Not a good start.


I ordered the Foie Gras, cured / sautéed / rhubarb / kumquats. The appetizer was beautifully presented on a square plate. The cured terrine was exceptional. Served cold over kumquat marmalade, with pickled rhubarb and perfectly toasted brioche bread on the side. The balance of flavors was spot on. I would have been happy with just that. On the other corner, a generous sautéed wedge of the foie was properly cooked but required some skillful knife work around the veins. I could have lived without that.



As an entrée, I had the Dayboat Scallops, smoked trout / parsnip-bacon cake / manila clams. The dish was really good. Scallops were perfectly seared, clams properly cooked and the cake –more like a seared puree, was crisp and creamy. A nice combination of textures and flavors.

I had high expectations for dessert. Salt House is owned by the people behind Town Hall–which in my opinion has some of the best sweets in San Francisco. I ordered the Baba Au Rhum, hazelnut semifreddo / cara cara orange / biscotti. It was nothing more than disappointing. Baba au rhum is one of my favorite classic French desserts. A brioche cake is simply soaked in flambéed rhum. Brasserie Lipp in Paris has the best one I ever had. Salt House’s version was all Baba, no rhum. Dry, boring. The semifreddo–more like an ice cream, stood on top trying fruitlessly to save the dehydrated cake.

In short

Let’s face it. Salt House is no Town Hall. It lacks the absolute quality consistency not to mention the delicious desserts. That said, this is still a pretty good restaurant in San Francisco. You can count on a hip, warm atmosphere, sharp service and, for the most part, a great dinner. I’d give it a 4/5 but, like with most families, I can’ help but compare it to the older sibling.

Chez Papa Resto, San Francisco

There are morning people and night people. The former are most productive when they wake up and usually don’t stay up late. The latter make the most of the evenings, but you can’t count on them early in the day. Chez Papa is like night people.

I made online reservations for brunch, 10:30am. The day before, I got a call from the restaurant apologizing that they wouldn’t open until 11 and asking if I’d be okay pushing my slot.

The outdoor tables were still empty when I arrived, I couldn’t tell if they were already open, it felt somewhat desolated, I walked in. There was a sense of bewilderment; some things didn’t quite fit the occasion.

Contrary to the charming Potrero Hill Chez Papa, this one features a much larger dining room. The interior design is reminiscent of a nightclub, hanging black chandeliers, dark walls and a long bar filled with about a hundred liqueur bottles. On the far end, an oversized terracotta sofa that I would place somewhere between Charlie And The Chocolate Factory and The Cheesecake Factory. Despite the excessive use or mirrors, it’s not a bad décor. That, of course, if you look at it at night.

The bright morning light seemed to reveal every little detail. What was meant to be subtle, to blend in, was called out as a highlight. The dark hardwood floors showed every single dust footprint, the intricate table wood grain looked overdone, the color palette was suddenly too strong. The staff, wearing terracotta aprons over black, seemed to have just arrived from a home shower after a long night.

The menu

Even the menu felt somewhat confused with the morning wakeup call. Of the twenty plus selections, only two are egg dishes; eggs benedict and omelet. Hardly a Brunch menu. Caesar Salad, Noçoise, Mussels, Chicken Club, Kobe Beef Tartare are some of the other options.

The meal

I had the Eggs Benedict with Jamón and sauce Bérnaise. It was boring. Properly done but lacking enthusiasm. I would have traded the lightly dressed green salad for roasted potatoes or something more flavorful. Gladly, I also ordered a side of homemade sausage that was good.

The French toast was dry and unexciting, a few scattered strawberries and that was it. It looked like an afterthought, threw together quickly without much care.

Coffee was good, brewed from Illy beans but on the weak side. Orange juice, on the other hand, was a joke. Five dollars and fifty cents for a half glass of supermarket juice, from concentrate. Served with a black straw, misplaced from a previous night’s cocktail.

In short

I will still try dinner at the newly opened Chez Papa Resto. I always liked the original Potrero Hill location and, despite lacking its charm, I feel like I owe this one another try. However, I can safely say this is no place for brunch. The ambience, the staff and the menu are not cut for a morning call. Everything is dazed and confused. Feels like a nightclub with morning hangover.